The settlement of artists on the falcon who lives. Unusual excursion "The Truth about the Falcon" (with a visit to the village of artists). The building of the complex of the railway station "Serebryany Bor"

How to get to the Sokol village: Art. subway Sokol

The village of Sokol is a relatively young, but very interesting historical area in Moscow, which can be considered as a self-governing community, a monument of wooden architecture and, finally, the first housing and construction cooperative of the Soviet period. This village, which at one time personified the idea of ​​a garden city, lurked among the high-rise buildings of the Volokolamsk highway.

The idea to implement such a project within the boundaries of Moscow was born in the first post-revolutionary years, when the city suffered from overpopulation, and the young authorities did not have the funds to build new housing. Then, taking into account the economic situation in the country, V. I. Lenin in 1921 signed a decree on cooperative housing construction, which allowed everyone who had the means to build housing at their own expense.

At the same time, back in 1918, under the guidance of well-known architects I. Zholtovsky and A. Shchusev, a general plan for the development of the city was created, which was called New Moscow. According to this plan, on the outskirts of Moscow, along the Moscow circular railway, so-called "small centers" were to appear, connected with the historical center of Moscow by direct transport highways along the radial system. These were supposed to be the city-gardens praised by Mayakovsky, the only example of which was the village of Sokol.

According to the original plan, the village was to be built in "Moscow Switzerland", as the Sokolniki district was then called (hence the name - Sokol). The cooperative partnership Sokol with the necessary documentation and an emblem - a falcon carrying a house in its paws, was created in the spring of 1923. This should be an experimental model, which would subsequently be equal to in the construction of other small centers. After testing the soil, it turned out that it was too wet and not suitable for wooden construction. A new site was chosen in the eastern part of the city. Here, between the village of Vsekhsvyatsky and Serebryany Bor, there was a wasteland and a dump of the Izolyator plant - it was decided to build a garden city on this territory. By the way, the Church of All Saints, after which the village was called, can still be seen on Peschanaya Square.

According to the plan, the village was bounded from the west by the village of Vsekhsvyatskoye, from the south - by Peschanaya Street and a pine park, in which the old sanatorium Romashka was located, from the east - by a circular railway, and from the north - by Volokolamsk highway. The central street of Vrubel was supposed to divide the village in half. The project was created by outstanding architects of that time: academician A. B. Shchusev, N. V. Markovnikov, P. Ya. Pavlinov, Vesnin brothers, P. A. Florensky, N. V. Kolli, I. I. Kondakov, N. Markovnikov , N. Durnbaum, A. Semiletov, graphic artists V. Favorsky, N. Kupreyanov, P. Pavlinov, L. Bruni, painters K. Istomin, P. Konchalovsky, sculptor I. Efimov and others. The first chairman of the board of the village of Sokol was elected chairman of the trade union of artists V. F. Sakharov.

In order to join the cooperative, it was necessary to make quite significant contributions for those times: 10.5 gold chervonets introductory, 30 chervonets - when allocating a plot and 20 chervonets - to start building a cottage. The approximate cost of one cottage was 600 gold chervonets. This amount was paid over several years. Each shareholder under the agreement had the right to 35 years of residence in his house without compaction and withdrawal of housing.

Most of the first developers were scientists, employees of the people's commissariats, artists, architects, technical intelligentsia, doctors, teachers. Part of the housing in six-apartment houses, which were also built in the Sokol village, and were cheaper, was intended for the workers of the Izolyator plant. When planning the territory, the country house was taken as the basis, so the main attention was paid to the abundance of greenery and the development of one-two-story houses. No one, of their own free will, had the right to install a high blank fence, as the visual perception of the perspective would be violated. It was also forbidden to develop more than one third of the site. A special type of fence was developed for the village - a low picket fence covered with a slab roof. Street lamps and park benches were the same in style - all this strengthened the impression of the integrity of the architectural complex.

In accordance with the plan approved by V.A. Vesnin, 320 residential buildings were to be built in the village, but in fact the territory was divided into 270 plots of about 200 square sazhens each (sazhen - 2.16 meters), which is approximately 9 acres.

The town-planning concept was as follows: free planning, original solution of space, direct connection of residential objects with nature. During the construction of the village, the ideas of the philosopher P. Florensky and the artist V. Favorsky were embodied. The broken trajectory of the streets created a sense of elongation. For example, the widest street in the village - Polenova Street (width 40 meters), passing through the main square, creates an angle of forty degrees, which creates the appearance of its infinity. Some streets are divided by transverse fences into equal segments, which also contributes to their visual lengthening. The use of the Michelangelo staircase effect, which is achieved by narrowing the street, also lengthens it in perspective. The narrow end of the street rests on the garden, as if dissolving in its greenery. But if you look at the same street from the narrow end, it will seem very short.

The visual lengthening of the streets at the crossroads was also achieved here by removing the corner house deep into the site, as well as the ends of the houses, which are devoid of windows, thanks to which the eye glides into the distance without dwelling on the architectural details.

When designing the village, the effect of a "spinning house" was also used, when, for a sharper sense of rotation, the houses stand at an angle to the street, and their facades are made up of three sections of different sizes. Such architectural tricks were used to create the illusion of the immensity of a rather modest area, which was only 20 hectares.

Construction work began at the end of the summer of 1923, and in the fall of 1926, 102 cottages were already ready for interior finishing work.

Bolshaya Street (now Polenova) became the main street of the village. Its width, as already mentioned, is 40 meters, which made it possible to plant two rows of trees on each side. It is interesting that initially the streets were not called as they are now, they were named: Bolshaya, Shkolnaya, Telefonnaya, Uyutnaya. And already during the settlement, the names were changed, and streets appeared with the names of famous Russian artists: Shishkin, Savrasov, Polenov, Bryullov, Kiprensky, Vereshchagin, Serov, Kramskoy, Surikov, Levitan. Such an idea came to the mind of the artist and one of the professors of VKhUTEMAS P.Ya. Pavlinov. By December 1924, the first quarter of the village of Sokol was commissioned on a turnkey basis, which ran between the streets of Surikov, Kiprensky, Levitan and Polenov.

All buildings in the village were originally divided into three categories: log houses that imitated Russian architecture; frame-fill, built according to the type of English cottages; brick houses with mansards, which took German mansions as a model. The most characteristic house for the village of Sokol was a single-family house. It included an attic, four living rooms, a living room, a kitchen and a spacious terrace with access to the garden. But, what is characteristic, for all the systematic construction, there were no two similar houses in it - they were necessarily different in some way, whether it was the number or arrangement of rooms, the shape of balconies, bay windows, window lights, and so on. The house, designed for two families, was a five-walled hut.

The construction company that created the village used it as an exhibition site, demonstrating the best examples of low-rise construction. In addition, the village has become a testing ground for testing new building materials and technologies. Here, for the first time, fibrolite was used - a material consisting of wood chips pressed with cement. For the first time, a foundation bowl was also used, in which a special ventilation system was installed. Carefully thought out not only the layout of green spaces in the village, but also their qualitative composition. Red maple, ash, small-leaved and large-leaved linden, American maple, poplar alba were specially planted. An amazing fact - in the village of Sokol, almost 150 ornamental plants were grown and bred, some of which are listed in the Red Book.

But not only architectural innovations made this village exceptional. Gradually, a very special social infrastructure developed here. The Sokol Housing and Construction Cooperative Partnership had at its disposal a shop, a kindergarten, a canteen, a library, sports grounds and a children's summer camp, a theater club, a children's toy circle, an aircraft modeling circle, a dance circle, where the student of Isadora Duncan, the first in Moscow, taught a cell of the "Society of Friends of Green Spaces", a sewing artel "Women's Labor" and much more. Due to the fact that the professional composition of the population was extremely diverse, most of the issues of the internal structure in the cooperative were resolved on their own and on a voluntary basis. In Sokol, the principle of the commune "from each according to his ability" was put into practice. All together, together, the inhabitants of the village ennobled the territory, bought firewood for the winter and harvested vegetables. Now it sounds like a fantasy, but in fact, the inhabitants were driven by the power of creation and enthusiasm.

Great attention in the village was paid to the upbringing of the younger generation, the development of sports, musical and artistic talents in children. The environment also contributed to this: the workshop of the sculptor N. Krandievskaya, the home school of graphics of P. Pavlinov, and the school of music of A. Shimanovsky were nearby. Until now, they tell how a group for teaching children the German language was created on a voluntary basis in the village kindergarten. Classes were held in a relaxed playful way, during walks around the village and its environs. As was customary in the past in noble families, so at certain hours in a group, children did not have the right to speak Russian. This technique gave excellent results. There was only one teacher on the staff of the kindergarten; mothers on duty helped her in shifts.

Since a significant part of the inhabitants of Sokol were artists, the village turned into a place where the most famous painters of Moscow gathered. In the house of Pavlinov, one could often meet talented sculptors, artists, architects, whose names are widely known today not only in professional circles. Among them are Kukryniksy, Korovin, Florensky, Bruni, Tsigal and many others.

On May 8, 1935, a giant plane Maxim Gorky fell on the village of Sokol, weighing 28.5 tons. It was damaged in a collision with an escort aircraft. The inhabitants of the village did not suffer then, but the tragedy served as a harbinger of the troubles that awaited Sokol.

In 1936, a decree of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR was issued, which prohibited the activities of housing cooperatives. The Sokol cooperative was dissolved, the board ceased to fulfill its functions, and the houses became the property of Moscow. At the same time, more than half of the territory was confiscated from the village (the section from Vrubel Street to Volokolamskoye Highway). Here, in four years, 18 houses were built to accommodate the families of NKVD workers, as well as a boiler room and a club. Two of these eighteen houses have survived to our time. Until now, a building has been preserved in the village, which in the 30s was strictly guarded by the NKVD service - Soviet scientists who created the atomic bomb lived here. During the period of Stalinist repressions, many residents of the village, and most of them were people of outstanding and prominent figures in their field, were arrested.

With the beginning of the Great Patriotic War, more than sixty people left the village for the front, twenty-one of them did not return, and now there is a monument to the fallen defenders of the Fatherland in the village. It must be remembered that the village of Sokol was located near the Volokolamsk highway, from where the Germans attacked Moscow in 1941. In autumn, the village joined the second line of defense of the capital of the USSR. Old men, women and children sawed trees in the parks for the construction of defensive fortifications in the village and along the District Railway. After the war, the inhabitants of the village were significantly compacted, resettled according to new standards - 6 square meters per person.

In 1946-1948, all the buildings in the village were connected to the city sewerage (before that there were cesspools), and gas stoves were installed in the kitchens. But already in the early 50s, when a shock demonstration construction began in this part of Moscow, the village was under the threat of demolition. What helped the Falcon survive is not known for sure. There is a legend that Stalin himself spoke out against it, but these are just rumors. Be that as it may, they were not demolished, although already in 1958 the executive committee of the Moscow Council issued an order to provide part of the land to the Administration of the Central Committee of the CPSU. Again, the inhabitants of the village entered into a confrontation with the authorities, and the order was canceled, but, as it turned out later, it was too early to rejoice. Some time later, the city authorities had an idea to demolish 54 of the existing 119 cottages. A house has already been selected for the resettlement of the residents of the village, but there were no volunteers, on the contrary, all the inhabitants as one stood up for the Sokol.

Several large organizations also joined the voice of opponents of the demolition: the Ministry of Culture, the All-Russian Society for the Protection of Historical and Cultural Monuments, unions of architects, artists, and others. And again, Sokol managed to survive, and besides, a decision was received from the Moscow City Executive Committee to give the village, as a unique architectural and urban planning complex, the status of an urban planning monument. Thus, the settlement fell under the protection of the city and district authorities, but no one was going to allocate funds for its preservation, and in 1989 a general meeting of residents decided to restore self-government. A self-supporting structure with a Charter was created in the village, the main purpose of which was the preservation and development of the Sokol village.

All the necessary authorities gave the go-ahead, and things went on. But such freedom entailed a huge responsibility, because now the residents themselves had to take care of the safety of the residential and non-residential fund, communications, parks and squares. And they had to do all this without receiving a penny of state money.

To date, the village of Sokol looks clean, well-groomed and well-maintained - this is the main merit of its inhabitants. A fountain operates in the central square during the warm season. By the 75th anniversary, a museum was opened in the village, the director of which was E. M. Alekseeva, Doctor of Historical Sciences, leading researcher at the Institute of Archeology of the Russian Academy of Sciences.

Now Sokol has 117 houses. Here, a park is open around the clock, in the collection of which there are a thousand units of green spaces. In the park you can often meet not only vacationers from nearby microdistricts, but also students of architectural and art educational institutions - they come here for plein air. True, old wooden houses are gradually disappearing, and modern expensive cottages are growing in their place. This situation developed at the end of the 20th - beginning of the 21st century, when the cost of housing in the village increased significantly. And, although the status of an architectural monument requires that all construction work be coordinated with the Moscow Heritage Committee, this rule was not followed, and it turned out that instead of historical cottages, new elite mansions have grown, some of them are included in the list of the most expensive houses in Moscow according to Forbes magazine. Now the village of Sokol is still an experimental site, now according to the methods of work of the territorial community.

There is in Moscow, practically in the center, one interesting district, which not even all Muscovites know about. The village of Sokol is lost among high-rise buildings, between Leningradsky Prospekt and Volokolamskoye Highway. However, this place has its own amazing atmosphere of measured and calm, which Moscow lacks so much =)
There is enough information about the village itself on the Internet, I will not repeat myself much, but I will show mainly what I saw myself one cloudy summer day, walking among the streets immersed in greenery.

There are no artists here, of course. It's just that the streets of the village are named after Russian artists - Levitan, Surikov, Polenov, Vrubel, Kiprensky, Shishkin, Vereshchagin, Venetsianov ..
The fountain is the first thing that catches your eye.

The village is very green, now you will see)

The settlement is under state protection as a monument of urban planning of the first years of Soviet power. Since 1989, the Sokol village has been self-governing.

Attention! Now it will be very green!

In fact, even the air is different there.

You can look over the fence =)

Another green frame, what can you do.

And also an absolutely amazing playground, with all sorts of carved things)

The village is quiet, and, I would say, humid)

Another fountain. This one is already on private property, behind a fence.

For some reason, I liked this house the most.

In the 1990s and 2000s, many residents of the village began to sell their houses, as their prices became very high. Despite the fact that the status of an architectural monument obliges the owners of houses to coordinate all construction work, some of the old houses of the village were demolished, and elite mansions were erected in their place. Separate buildings are included in the list of the most expensive houses in Moscow, according to Wikipedia.

In a glamorous district, by the way, the fences are so severe that you can’t see anything behind them. There is something to hide, perhaps.

Stumbled upon a British school. suddenly! Moreover, the record is also being made there and only on the recommendations, as we understand it. Even in the village we saw a library, a cookery, a maternity hospital, a kindergarten, a school. But there was no store to be found

She leaned over another fence.

Great for cycling. Don't ask why - just believe. And try. You can start a bike ride from a variety of places - it all depends on where you live. But I started the route from the Pokrovskoye-Streshnevo railway platform ( Riga direction - ed.). Firstly, a very beautiful name, and secondly, a fascinating path to the village itself. The route is not over for me: from Sokol he goes to the Oktyabrskoye field, to admire the ensemble of houses of post-war buildings. And then there are many options. Fortunately, there are plenty of interesting places in the area.

This is an abandoned station building of the Pokrovskoye-Streshnevo station, a stone's throw from the platform of the same name. Modern, built in 1908. What will be inside? And will there be anything? The building is currently up for sale.

Remains of ceramics on the side facade of the building. What size was the ceramic panel a hundred years ago? What was shown there?

Tram tracks are a kind of visiting card of the districts in the vicinity of Shchukinskaya, Sokol, Voykovskaya and Timiryazevskaya. There are more trams left here than in the rest of Moscow. The tram tracks in the middle of the park look picturesque and a little mysterious. The tram rushes between the trees, flashing headlights and ringing desperately ...

When Tushino was a separate town (until 1960) the only connection with the mainland, i.e. with Sokol, it was just tram number 6. A few years ago, in connection with the construction of the “interchange” at Leningradka, this route was changed and the “six” went to Voikovskaya. But now she will again take passengers to the Falcon.

Behind this house is Panfilov Street. Sokol village is a green oasis in the north-west of a multi-million city, occupying a quarter in a triangle formed by the Volokolamsk highway, Alabyan and Panfilov streets. Architect Karo Semyonovich Alabyan and military leader Ivan Vasilievich Panfilov shake hands, smiling at the artists lurking in the lanes.

A long fence with funny sayings at the end of Panfilov Street. Here, in one of the houses, there is a stunningly tasty and inexpensive Uzbek canteen near the Stroganov Art University. The canteen is open from 9 am to 10 pm.

This is the end of house number 4 on Panfilov Street. Four huge houses on the corner of Panfilov and Alabyan streets form a single architectural ensemble, also known as "New Houses on Levitan Street". The houses were built in the early 1950s.

Vrubel Street is the northern border of the Village of Artists. If the artists don’t really want to cook at home, you can go to a cafe, fortunately it’s not far away.

In the original project, the streets of the village were called differently than they are now: Bolshaya, Central, School, Station, Telephone, Canteen, etc. In 1928, the streets were named after Russian artists: Levitan, Surikov, Polenov, Vrubel, Kiprensky, Shishkin, Vereshchagin and others. Therefore, the Sokol became known as the "Settlement of Artists". The author of the new toponymy of "Falcon" is the famous graphic artist Pavel Yakovlevich Pavlinov. The streets in the northwestern part of the original territory seized from the village in the 1930s were supposed to be named after Russian composers. If it had not been confiscated, there would have been a settlement of "artists and composers" in Moscow. In the names of the Sokol streets, there is a connection with the pre-revolutionary tradition: already in 1910, the Klyazma holiday village appeared near Moscow, where the streets bore the names of Russian writers, poets and artists.

Initially, it was planned to build up the Sokol village with three types of cottages: log, frame-fill and brick. Later, each of the types of houses varied many times. According to the plans of the architects, various designs and materials were used. Since Sokol was the firstborn of the Soviet housing and construction cooperation, it became a kind of base for testing architectural solutions. Many buildings of the village were experimental. According to the project of N.Ya. Kolli, for example, built a house from Armenian tuff to test the properties of this material before using it in the cladding of the Centrosoyuz building on Myasnitskaya Street.

What is here now? Yes, everything is the same. Over the years, the trees have grown taller than houses and hide them with their crowns. Someone sold his land and "dissolved" in a multi-million dollar city. Others, on the contrary, are in no hurry to part with their native, precious land.

The central square of the village (the one on which Polenov Street breaks at an angle of 45 °) is called by the locals the Star (or Asterisk) - because the streets scatter from it in five directions. In the early 1990s a playground and an obelisk in memory of those killed in the Great Patriotic War appeared on it. The playground itself, almost a monument of wooden architecture, is always full of children. Adults sit side by side, in a carved arbor, and read thoughtfully.

Polenov and Surikov streets scatter from Star Square along pretty wooden fences.

Now about the cottages themselves. These are log huts with wide overhangs, huts-towers (an image of Siberian Cossack fortresses), frame-filled, like English cottages, brick houses with attics like German mansions. In the photo above - a classic English cottage. Although I saw exactly the same houses in Herrang, Sweden.

In the photo below, symmetrically located wooden houses on Polenova Street remind knowledgeable people of northern watchtowers. The architects are the Vesnin brothers.

The territorial community, established in 1989, is the self-government body of the Sokol settlement. Financing of activities is carried out by renting non-residential premises, deductions from the rent of the residents of the village and sponsorship contributions. Address of the territorial community: Shishkin street, house 1/8 (pictured below). The Sokol Village Museum was opened in 1998 in the same building. The museum contains many old photographs, stories about the inhabitants of the village, as well as a fragment of the ANT-20 aircraft "Maxim Gorky". The head of the museum is a native inhabitant of the village Ekaterina Alekseeva.

One of the streets of the village is named after the outstanding landscape painter Alexei Kondratievich Savrasov.

The School of Foreign Languages ​​on Vereshchagin Street has successfully fit into the vacant territory under the canopy of sprawling trees.

The area of ​​the village today is 21 hectares, each individual plot is about nine acres. Sokol has about a hundred houses on eleven streets and about 500 residents.

There are also apartment buildings in the village. They had to be built after the concept of developing the territory with individual residential cottages was criticized in the early 1930s. And in the photo below is a house with an interesting facade - windowless.

Sergey Sergeevich Tserivitinov, 81 years old, honorary head of the Sokol self-government.

There is still no consensus on where the name "Falcon" came from. According to the most common version, the first Soviet garden city was originally planned to be built in Sokolniki - hence the name. There was even an emblem of the partnership: a seal with the image of a falcon holding a house in its paws. But then the plans changed, and land was allocated for the village near the village of Vsekhsvyatsky on the northwestern outskirts of Moscow. However, they decided not to change the name - they just shortened it.

According to another version, the village is named after the agronomist and livestock breeder A.I. Falcon, who bred thoroughbred pigs in his yard. Finally, according to the third version, the village got its name from a building tool - a plaster falcon.

And a bit of history (in addition to what has already been said).

The settlement "Sokol" was conceived as part of the urban development plans for Moscow in the 1920s. One of the plans, the author of which was Alexei Shchusev, was called “New Moscow”. On the periphery of the capital, along the Moscow circular railway, it was planned to create a number of so-called small centers, conceived as garden cities.
In those years, the idea of ​​garden cities around metropolitan areas was extremely popular in the West. According to the concept, garden cities combined the best properties of the city and the countryside. Built up with low houses, they included all the infrastructure necessary for life - libraries, clubs, shops, sports and playgrounds, kindergartens. In Soviet Russia, the settlement "Sokol" became the first and only example of the realization of this idea.

In August 1921, Lenin signed a decree on cooperative housing construction, according to which cooperative associations and individual citizens were given the right to build urban plots. Then in Moscow there was a catastrophic lack of housing, and the authorities did not have money for its construction.
The housing and construction cooperative partnership "Sokol" was founded in March 1923. The partnership included employees of the people's commissariats, economists, artists, teachers, agronomists, technical intelligentsia and workers. The construction of the village began in the autumn of 1923, and was mostly completed by the beginning of the 1930s. A total of 114 houses were built with all amenities.

Sergey Sergeevich Tserevitinov, war veteran, honorary head of the self-government council of the Sokol village: Among the inhabitants of "Sokol" were not only representatives of the successful creative intelligentsia. Lived here, for example, ordinary workers of the Izolyator plant, the Moskhleb organization - collective shareholders of the cooperative. The cost of installment plans for the construction of houses depended on the size of the buildings - even a poor person could afford to settle in a small cottage.

Before becoming an architectural monument, the Sokol was repeatedly wanted to be demolished. For what? Just to build up a tidbit of land with high-rise buildings. The first talk about the demolition of the Sokol began in the 1950s: “... it is high time to knock over the chicken coops of the village with a bulldozer,” threatened the district executive committee, intending to demolish 54 out of 119 cottages. Through the efforts of local residents, the village managed to be defended. Its demolition as a single architectural complex was opposed by the Ministry of Culture, the Society for the Protection of Monuments and the Union of Architects. As a result, by the decision of the Moscow City Council on May 25, 1979, the Sokol settlement was placed under state protection as a monument of urban planning in the first years of Soviet power.

In the late 1980s, in order to earn money for the maintenance of the village, the Sokol agency was organized by its residents, which made a profit through work performed on a contract basis. For a more effective solution of territorial issues in 1989, a territorial public self-government (TPS) was established in the village.
In 1998, Sokol celebrated its 75th anniversary. The opening of the village museum was timed to this date. The museum, which is housed in the building of the territorial community (Shishkin Street, 1/8), has collected many old photographs, stories about local residents, as well as a fragment of the ANT-20 Maxim Gorky aircraft that crashed on the village in May 1935.

Sergei Sergeevich Tserevitinov: “The local residents deal with all issues related to the life of the village on their own, without interference and assistance from the city authorities. They don't give us money, but they don't tell us what to do either. We earn our livelihood mainly by renting non-residential premises.
The Sokol settlement is the only territorial entity in the SAO (and possibly in the whole of Moscow) that is completely self-sufficient financially.”

Hope you enjoyed our trip. And that's not the end... Stay tuned!

Settlement of artists on the Falcon. Part 1.

I thought for a long time - whether to write about the village of artists, enough has been written about it even without me. On the other hand, he is so dear to me, I was born and grew up next to him ( I wrote about the surroundings of the village and my home in a series of posts). This is the place of our children's games, many memories are associated with it, so I cannot completely ignore the artists' village. In addition, I have the hope that one of its inhabitants will read these posts and perhaps supplement them with their stories or share family photos.
Village of artists. st. Polenov.

And one more argument, every year the village of artists is rapidly changing, it is less and less like the one that I remember. Many of his old houses have not been preserved, not only in kind, but there are not even old photographs of some of the former houses. Photos of houses that originally stood on the "asterisk" have even disappeared from the Internet, as we called the only square in the village where several streets converge, and a few years ago, I saw them, because. I thought about writing about it for a long time. In the end I decided do not write about the history of the village of artists at all who does not know her will find information about him on the Internet and in books, and I will only try to make something like his encyclopedia, where there will be a story about each street of the village ( In alphabet order), as well as a story about all the old and new houses and, if possible, about their inhabitants. Gradually I will add new information about the village that I can find. At the same time, I will hope that the old photos of the missing demolished houses will eventually appear on the network.

Halabyan street.
Photo from here.


Partially, I already wrote about Halabyan Street, in this post we will only talk about her three houses, standing on this street and belonging to the artists' village.

Previously, these houses were listed on Peschanaya Street, but in the 1950s, the last part of it was renamed Street. Alabyan. When the first, not poor, settlers settled on this, then quiet, Sandy Street, they did not even imagine that later their houses would be next to the noisy highway, which is now the street. Alabyan. The entrance fee to the cooperative partnership was 10.5 gold chervonets, when allocating a plot it was necessary to pay another 30 and then another 20 at the start of the construction of the cottage. The cost of the cottage itself was almost 600 gold coins, a lot of money at that time.
Halabyan street. View from above. To the left of it departs the street. Levitan, and on the right st. Surikov.

It is impossible not to mention that in the photo above house number 4 standing on a break st. Levitan, this is the place where the Maxim Gorky plane crashed on May 18, 1935, and its wreckage scattered almost throughout the village, but we will talk more about this in the appropriate place, but for now, about st. Alabyan.
In the book "Monuments of Moscow", in the section devoted to the village of artists, there is a plan of the village dated August 24, 1926 with already built houses marked on it. It follows from this plan that the first houses in the village appeared on the street. Surikov and Alabyan ( then Peschanaya st.), on the latter, by this time, all three houses had already been built.
All the cottages on this street, like most of the houses in the village, were built according to the designs of the architect Markovnikov (Morkovnikov) Nikolai Vladimirovich, in addition, he himself was a resident of the village (the house has not been preserved, I will tell you about the place where he stood on the corresponding street, so it is appropriate to post his photo and briefly write from which family he came from, because far from all sources talk about it.
Markovnikov N.V. (1869 - 1942) - Russian and Soviet architect, archaeologist, restorer and teacher, was born into a highly educated family - his father is the famous Russian chemist Markovnikov Vladimir Vasilievich, and his mother Lyubov Dmitrievna Rychkova (granddaughter of the Orenburg historiographer P.I. Rychkov). His brother is Doctor of Medicine Alexander Vladimirovich Markovnikov, and his sister Natalya Vladimirovna is a teacher.
You can read his further biography in many sources, for example,.
Markovnikov Nikolay Vladimirovich

Initially, he was also involved in the development of the plan of the garden village, but later, with the involvement of V. Vesnin and other architects in this work, the project was changed in favor of the so-called free planning, which was based on the theory of space perception developed by Pavel Florensky. Other ideas that arose within the walls of VKHUTEMAS were also used.
House No. 8V and No. 8B (former numbers No. 43 and No.?) - residential buildings, designed for one family. Two of them, those in the second upper photo on the right, are visible in the photo below.
View from the street. Levitan to the houses of houses No. 8B and No. 8V on the street. Alabyan. Photo 1924

A friend of my grandmother lived in one of these houses, in which one I don’t remember exactly, I was not in it. I know that these were two sisters, both unmarried, during the perestroika years they were repeatedly offered to sell the house and even threatened, although they were very afraid, they did not want to leave their native home. I don’t know how their further fate turned out, perhaps one of the “falconers”, as the inhabitants of the village call themselves, will write.
House No. 8B- residential building, built in 1924. An architectural monument, like all the preserved old houses in the village.

House number 8B. This residential building (built in 1923 - 1924) is also listed as a monument of architecture in all sources. on the plan ( this plan posted respect th m_i_s_t_e_r_x_1 ), which I am guided by, neither officials nor Archnadzor have any claims to this house. However, in the only modern photo with him ( far right), which I managed to find, its dimensions are different from the house presented in the old photo of 1924, so for now I will put its authenticity into question (?).

Here is another photo showing houses No. 8A \ 2, No. 8B, and also house No. 8A from left to right.

House No. 8A- residential building, built in 1925, demolished. There are no photographs of the original house. Now in its place is another cottage, which houses a restaurant with the unpretentious name "Dom 8A"
View of the new cottage from the side of the former garden, where tiles are now.


One of the halls of the restaurant.


Maybe someone here will like it, but this has nothing to do with the village that I remember.

Bryullov street.
The former name of this street - Stolovaya Street, was renamed in 1928. Initially, all the streets of the village bore names tied to the buildings on them - Vokzalnaya, Telegrafnaya or at the location - Central, Park, etc. And then, at the suggestion of the artist Pavlinov, the streets were renamed in honor of Russian artists and musicians, but due to the fact that only half of the settlement of artists () was built up, the streets with the names of the musicians disappeared, although, in reference books of the 1920s - early 1930s years, you can meet and st. Tchaikovsky, and Glinka street and others.
In my childhood memories, St. Bryullova was the most quiet and deserted, all overgrown with tall grass. Usually I got on it, and more often I rode a bicycle, from the side of the street. Vrubel, where on one side there was a wall of a solid high wooden fence, or there was a point for receiving glass containers, or something else ( now this place is a gray high-rise building and a library), and on the other side is the blank wall of the mirror factory. It wasn’t that cars didn’t drive along it, but it seemed to me that people didn’t walk either. In order to make Bryullov Street seem longer, when designing it, the architects placed house No. 25 on the neighboring Surikov Street in the back of the site.
It is not a secret for the majority that trees of a certain species were planted on each street of the experimental village. So, Tatar maples were planted on Bryullov Street.

All original houses and cottages on the street. Bryullov were built according to the project of the same architect Markovnikov, with the exception of house number 4, I will write about its architect below.
House №2\22 . About this residential building, built in 1927, standing on the corner of Surikov Street ( according to her he is number 22) and st. Bryullov ( according to her he is number 2), very little is known, although it is one of the hallmarks of the village and is often found in old photographs.

In the 1920s, there was an experimental kindergarten in this house, in which only one teacher worked, and the mothers of the children took turns doing the rest of the work.

At the kindergarten, in the same 1920-1930s, there was a German language study group: teachers Sicily Frantsevna and Nadezhda Petrovna walked for several hours with the children in the then undeveloped neighborhoods, allowing the children to talk to each other only in German.
Kindergarten of the Sokol village. Photo 1927 - 1928


House number 4. Residential building, 1928, architect Durnbaum Nikolai Sergeevich

Surprisingly, there is practically no information about this architect, even the years of his life are not known, although he is the author of several houses in the village of Sokol. The only thing I managed to find out about him is that he was a professor and doctor of technical sciences, as well as the author of a textbook and yearbook on architecture and other books. True, a certain Dyurnbaum Nikolai Sergeevich (1889 - 1953) is mentioned on the site, these dates coincide with the release of the architect’s books, there is even a photo of him, but I can’t say with certainty that this is the same person I can’t yet.

And here are some of the innovations applied by N.S. Durnbaum. in the artists' village, we'll talk at the appropriate place.
The honored architect and honored worker of arts of the Russian Federation Dmitry Fedotovich Zhivotov spent his childhood and youth in this house, many residential areas of the capital's SAO, as well as residential areas in Nizhny Novgorod, Yekaterinburg and other cities of the Russian Federation, were built according to his projects.

House number 6. Residential building, built in 1926.
Surprisingly, the house has changed quite a bit over the past almost 70 years. Here is a photo of the 1950s of the same house from the book by Tsapenko M.N. "On the realistic foundations of Soviet architecture". M. 1952.


During the war, on December 30, 1941, two cottages on Surikov and Bryullov streets were destroyed ( I will write about them in my next post.), a bomb fell between them, and fragments scattered around the immediate surroundings. Fortunately, none of the residents were hurt.

Walking past this house, pay attention to the gate, it contains the remains of shells from the Second World War, perhaps the same ones that fell nearby. Well, the house itself is guarded by a faithful dog lying on the porch.

House number 8. The residential building was built of larch in the form of a Russian chopped hut ( according to some data, 1924, according to others, built in 1926).

The engineer's family lived there. Lev Abramovich Radus.Radus received his education in Germany as a mechanical engineer, took part in the construction of sawmills in the USSR, built 12 in total, and had a number of inventions in his field. His son, Iosif Lvovich, a design engineer, also has a number of inventions. In recent years, the wife of I.L. and their daughter. Iosif Lvovich often recalled the village of the first years - in the pre-war period there was a tennis court, excellent volleyball, basketball, football and athletics grounds and grounds for playing towns, croquet and rounders.

The verandah to the house was probably added later.

Dear "Sokolians" and residents of the surrounding area, if you have old photos of the village or you want to share your memories, add them in the comments or write to me in PM and I will insert your stories and old photos into my post.

Welcome to the unique Moscow district called "Sokol"! On this amazing tour, you will learn how the royal village of Vsekhsvyatskoe turned into a place of settlement for Georgian princes, why the place was named "Sokol", and then it was nicknamed the "village of artists", where all the streets are named after famous Russian painters.

On our tour, we will walk along the unusual, specially unevenly planned streets of this unique oasis within Moscow. Against the backdrop of high-rise buildings and Stalinist houses, a person here finds himself as if in a large holiday village with small houses built as experimental ones back in the 1920s. This is an island of old Moscow, as our parents, grandparents saw it. We will be able to defeat time and move back many years, peering into the old church and graveyards near it, examining architectural masterpieces, learning the secret of the walking park, the stories of famous residents of the village and students of nearby schools.

On our unusual excursion you will find:

* Village of All Saints - the royal village of the Holy Fathers, given to the Georgian princes. A unique architectural masterpiece of the rural church of All Saints of the first half of the 18th century, in which divine services were held in Georgian. Who occupied the temple after the revolution, to whom we owe the return of the temple to believers in 1946. The architectural masterpiece of the Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord, built by the famous A.V. Shchusev and demolished in the year of his death. Why was a monument erected to the servants of the Nazi army on the territory of the church?

* Settlement "Falcon". The secret of such a name, which gave the name to the huge Moscow district. The first Moscow garden city and the first cooperative village in the capital. Who came up with the idea to name all the streets of the village after famous painters, after which it began to be called the “village of artists”. Walk through the old village: experimental houses of the 1920s; the most expensive modern house of the village called "yin and yang"; the house where actor and director Rolan Bykov, sculptor Andrey Faydysh, artist A.M. Gerasimov, where their descendants continue to live. The house on which the very first giant of the domestic aviation industry fell - the Maxim Gorky aircraft and the real story of this disaster.

* Memorial cemetery on the site of the former garden and the current park. Who came up with the idea of ​​organizing a fraternal cemetery for Russian soldiers who died in the First World War? How the necropolis was planned and what territory it originally occupied. The chapel, in which in 2015 the ashes of N.N. Romanov and his wife. The only surviving tombstone in the park - who and why shielded it with their chest and did not allow it to be demolished in Soviet times? The last refuge of the young cadets who defended the Kremlin in 1917.

* Interesting moments. Why did the street get the name of the architect Halabyan and what is connected with him in these places? Where did the river Khodynka and Tarakanovka disappear to? What did the inhabitants of the village of Sandy find in their land. Houses for generals, admirals and NKVD workers. The old railway station called "Serebryany Bor" in this place. Why are they trying to find Treasures of False Dmitry II?