Building a drawing of the basic design of a dress with set-in sleeves. Drawing the basic design of a dress with set-in sleeves Drawing a circle in dimetry

7.1. Axis position... Construction begins by drawing axonometric axes x, y and z. The axis of the frontal dimetric projection is positioned as shown in Figure 61, a: the X-axis is horizontal, the z-axis is vertical, the y-axis is at an angle of 45 ° to the horizontal line.

An angle of 45 ° can be constructed using a drawing square with angles of 45, 45 and 90 °, as shown in Figure 61, c. The y axis is tilted to the left or right.

In the frontal dimetric projection along the x and z axes (and parallel to them), natural dimensions are laid, along the y axis (and parallel to it), halved.

The position of the axes of the isometric projection is shown in Figure 61, b. The x and y axes are positioned at an angle of 30 ° to the horizontal line (120 ° between the axes). They are also conveniently carried out using a square. But in this case, the square is taken with angles of 30, 60 and 90 ° (Fig. 61, d).

When constructing an isometric projection along the x, y, z axes and parallel to them, the natural dimensions of the object are laid.

Figure 61. e and f shows the construction of the axes on paper. lined in a cage. It is used when performing technical drawings. To obtain an angle of 15 °, the axis is drawn along the diagonals of the cells (Fig. 61, e). The ratio of the segments in 3 and 5 cells gives an axis tilt of approximately 30 ° (Fig. 61, f).

What dimensions are laid when drawing along axonometric axes in isometric and frontal dimetric projections?

Figure: 61. Image of axes of axonometric projections: a, 6 - position of axes; c, d techniques for plotting axes; e, f - plotting axes when performing technical drawings

7.2. Axonometric projections of plane figures... Consider the construction of axonometric projections of flat geometric figures located horizontally (Table 1). Such constructions will be needed in the future when performing axonometric projections of geometric bodies. Construction begins by drawing axonometric axes x and y.

Table 1. Method for constructing axonometric projections of flat figures

7.3. Axonometric projections of flat-cut objects.

Consider a general method for constructing axonometric projections of flat-faced objects (Table 2) using the example of a detail, two types of which are given in Figure 62.

Fig. 62. Detail drawing

Table 2. Method for constructing axonometric projections of flat-cut objects

From the example considered in the table, it can be seen that the rules for constructing isometric and frontal dimetric projections are generally the same. The only difference is in the arrangement of the axes and in the length of the segments laid along the y-axis.

Figure: 63. Exercise task

Please note that when applying dimensions on an axonometric projection of an object, extension lines are drawn parallel to the axonometric axes, dimension lines are drawn parallel to the measured segment.

1. How are the axes of the frontal dimetric projection located? isometric projection?
2. What dimensions are laid along the axes of the frontal dimetric and isometric projections and parallel to them?
3. List the general stages of building axonometric projections.

1. Construct a frontal dimetric projection of an equilateral triangle with a side of 40 mm.

   Construct an isometric view of a regular hexagon with a side also 40 mm. Place them parallel to the frontal plane of the projections.

2. Build a frontal dimetric and isometric projection of the part shown in Figure 63.

For a visual representation of objects (products or their component parts), it is recommended to use axonometric projections, choosing in each case the most suitable one.

The essence of the method of axonometric projection lies in the fact that a given object, together with the coordinate system to which it is referred in space, is projected onto a certain plane by a parallel beam of rays. The direction of projection onto the axonometric plane does not coincide with any of the coordinate axes and is not parallel to any of the coordinate planes.

All types of axonometric projections are characterized by two parameters: the direction of the axonometric axes and the distortion coefficients along these axes. The distortion factor is the ratio of the size of the image in the axonometric projection to the size of the image in the orthogonal projection.

Depending on the ratio of the distortion coefficients, axonometric projections are divided into:

Isometric, when all three distortion factors are the same (k x \u003d k y \u003d k z);

Dimetric, when the distortion coefficients are the same along two axes, and the third is not equal to them (k x \u003d k z ≠ k y);

Trimetric, when all three distortion coefficients are not equal to each other (k x ≠ k y ≠ k z).

Depending on the direction of the projection rays, axonometric projections are divided into rectangular and oblique. If the projection rays are perpendicular to the axonometric projection plane, then such a projection is called rectangular. Rectangular axonometric projections include isometric and dimetric. If the projection rays are directed at an angle to the axonometric projection plane, then such a projection is called oblique. Oblique axonometric projections include frontal isometric, horizontal isometric and frontal dimetric projections.

In a rectangular isometric view, the angles between the axes are 120 °. The actual coefficient of distortion along the axonometric axes is 0.82, but in practice, for the convenience of construction, the indicator is taken equal to 1. As a result, the axonometric image is enlarged in times.

The isometric axes are shown in Figure 57.

Figure 57

The construction of isometric axes can be performed using a compass (Figure 58). To do this, first draw a horizontal line and draw the Z axis perpendicular to it.From the point of intersection of the Z axis with the horizontal line (point O) draw an auxiliary circle with an arbitrary radius that intersects the Z axis at point A. From point A with the same radius, draw a second circle to the intersection with the first at points B and C. The resulting point B is connected to point O - the direction of the X axis is obtained.In the same way, point C is connected to the point O - the direction of the Y axis is obtained.

Figure 58

The construction of an isometric projection of a hexagon is shown in Figure 59. To do this, it is necessary to plot along the X axis the radius of the circumscribed circle of the hexagon in both directions relative to the origin. Then, along the Y axis, plot the size of the turnkey, from the obtained points, draw lines parallel to the X axis and plot the size of the side of the hexagon along them.

Figure 59

To create a circle in rectangular isometric projection

The most difficult plane figure to draw in perspective is a circle. As you know, a circle in isometry is projected into an ellipse, but the construction of an ellipse is rather difficult, therefore GOST 2.317-69 recommends using ovals instead of ellipses. There are several ways to create isometric ovals. Let's consider one of the most common.

The size of the major axis of the ellipse is 1.22d, the small axis is 0.7d, where d is the diameter of the circle whose isometry is being constructed. Figure 60 shows a graphical method for defining the major and minor axes of an isometric ellipse. To determine the minor axis of the ellipse, points C and D are connected. From points C and D, as from centers, arcs of radii equal to CD are drawn until they intersect. Line segment AB is the major axis of the ellipse.

Figure 60

Having established the direction of the major and minor axes of the oval, depending on which coordinate plane the circle belongs to, two concentric circles are drawn according to the dimensions of the major and minor axes, at the intersection of which the points O 1, O 2, O 3, O 4 are marked, which are the centers arcs of the oval (Figure 61).

To determine the points of conjugation, lines of centers are drawn, connecting O 1, O 2, O 3, O 4. from the obtained centers O 1, O 2, O 3, O 4 draw arcs with radii R and R 1. the dimensions of the radii are visible in the drawing.

Figure 61

The direction of the axes of the ellipse or oval depends on the position of the projected circle. There is the following rule: the major axis of the ellipse is always perpendicular to the axonometric axis, which is projected onto the given plane to a point, and the minor axis coincides with the direction of this axis (Figure 62).

Figure 62

Hatching and isometric projection

The hatching lines of sections in isometric projection, according to GOST 2.317-69, must have a direction parallel to either only the large diagonals of the square, or only to the small ones.

Rectangular dimetry is an axonometric projection with equal distortion values \u200b\u200balong the two axes X and Z, and along the Y axis the distortion index is half.

According to GOST 2.317-69, the Z axis is used in rectangular dimetry, located vertically, the X axis is inclined at an angle of 7 °, and the Y axis is at an angle of 41 ° to the horizon line. The distortion values \u200b\u200bon the X and Z axes are 0.94, and on the Y axis it is 0.47. Usually, the reduced coefficients k x \u003d k z \u003d 1, k y \u003d 0.5 are used, i.e. along the X and Z axes or in directions parallel to them, the actual dimensions are plotted, and the dimensions along the Y axis are halved.

To construct the axes of dimetry, use the method shown in Figure 63, which is as follows:

On a horizontal line passing through point O, eight equal arbitrary segments are laid in both directions. From the end points of these segments down the vertical line, one of the same segment is laid on the left, and seven on the right. The obtained points are connected to point O and the direction of the axonometric axes X and Y in rectangular dimetry is obtained.

Figure 63

Constructing a dimetric projection of a hexagon

Consider the construction of a regular hexagon in dimetry located in the plane P 1 (Figure 64).

Figure 64

On the X-axis we lay off a segment equal to the value b, so that it the middle was at point O, and along the Y axis - the segment and, the size of which has been halved. Through the obtained points 1 and 2, draw straight lines parallel to the OX axis, on which we lay off segments equal to the side of the hexagon in full size with the middle at points 1 and 2. Connect the resulting vertices. Figure 65a shows in dimetry a hexagon located parallel to the frontal plane, and in figure 66b - parallel to the profile plane of the projection.

Figure 65

Draw a circle in dimetry

In rectangular dimetry, all circles are depicted by ellipses,

The length of the major axis for all ellipses is the same and equal to 1.06d. The size of the minor axis is different: for the frontal plane it is equal to 0.95d, for the horizontal and profile planes - 0.35d.

In practice, the ellipse is replaced by a four-centered oval. Consider the construction of an oval that replaces the projection of a circle lying in the horizontal and profile planes (Figure 66).

Through point O - the beginning of the axonometric axes, we draw two mutually perpendicular straight lines and set aside on the horizontal line the value of the major axis AB \u003d 1.06d, and on the vertical line the value of the minor axis CD \u003d 0.35d. Up and down from O along the vertical, we lay off the segments OO 1 and OO 2, equal in magnitude to 1.06d. Points O 1 and O 2 are the center of the large arcs of the oval. To determine two more centers (O 3 and O 4), we set aside on a horizontal line from points A and B the segments AO 3 and BO 4, equal to ¼ the values \u200b\u200bof the minor axis of the ellipse, that is, d.

Figure 66

Then, from points O1 and O2 we draw arcs, the radius of which is equal to the distance to points C and D, and from points O3 and O4 - with a radius to points A and B (Figure 67).

Figure 67

The construction of an oval, replacing an ellipse, from a circle located in the plane P2, will be considered in Figure 68. Draw the axes of dimetry: X, Y, Z. The minor axis of the ellipse coincides with the direction of the Y axis, and the large one is perpendicular to it. On the X and Z axes, from the beginning, we postpone the value of the radius of the circle and get the points M, N, K, L, which are the conjugation points of the oval arcs. From points M and N we draw horizontal lines, which at the intersection with the Y-axis and perpendicular to it give points O 1, O 2, O 3, O 4 - the centers of the oval arcs (Figure 68).

From the centers O 3 and O 4 describe an arc with a radius of R 2 \u003d O 3 M, and from the centers O 1 and O 2 - an arc with a radius of R 1 \u003d O 2 N

Figure 68

Hatching a rectangular dimetry

The hatching lines of cuts and sections in axonometric projections are performed parallel to one of the diagonals of the square, the sides of which are located in the corresponding planes parallel to the axonometric axes (Figure 69).

Figure 69

1. What types of axonometric projections do you know?
2. At what angle are the axes in isometric view?
3. What shape does the isometric projection of a circle represent?
4. How is the major axis of the ellipse located for a circle belonging to the profile plane of the projections?
5. What are the accepted distortion coefficients along the X, Y, Z axes for constructing a dimetric projection?
6. At what angles are the axes in dimetry?
7. What is the shape of the square's dimetric projection?
8. How to build a dimetric projection of a circle located in the frontal plane of the projections?
9. Basic rules for shading in axonometric projections.

1. When the ammeter was connected to the circuit as shown in Figure 63 a), the current was 0.5 A. What will the ammeter readings when it is connected to the same circuit as shown in Figure 63 b)?

Ammeter readings - 0.5A.

2. How can you check the correctness of the ammeter reading using another ammeter, the accuracy of which has been verified?

You need to connect the ammeters in series. If the ammeter readings are the same, then the second ammeter is serviceable.

3. Consider the ammeters given in Figures 61, 62. Determine the scale divisions of each ammeter. What is the highest amperage they can measure? Redraw the ammeter scale (see Fig. 61 a) in a notebook and show what the position of the arrow will be at 0.3 A and 1.5 A.

Figure: 61 a) scale division (2-1): 5 \u003d 0.2 A; J max \u003d 3A
c) division value (1-0.5): 10 \u003d 0.05 A; J max \u003d 2A
Figure: 62 division value (2-1): 5 \u003d 0.2A; J max \u003d 3A

4. There is an accurate ammeter. How, using it, to apply a scale to another, not yet graduated ammeter?

It is necessary to connect both ammeters in series in the circuit containing the rheostat. Changing the current in the circuit with a rheostat, you need to put strokes on the scale of an ungraded ammeter in accordance with the readings of an accurate ammeter.

Building a drawing of the basic design of a dress with set-in sleeves

Building a drawing of the basic design of a dress with set-in sleeves and a turn-down collar

When building a drawing of the basic design of a classic dress with set-in sleeves, measurements were taken and, accordingly, calculations were made for a figure of size 164-96-104. This is a relative size. The design drawing must be built using measurements taken from a specific figure, taking into account the physique.

The soft shape with one-piece sleeves, raglan sleeves and shirt cut with various armhole designs is developed on the basis of the design drawing of a classic dress with set-in sleeves. Depending on the direction of fashion, the depth of the armhole can increase to 2-5 cm or more (up to the waist line).

To build a drawing, you need to take the following measurements, see:

• Semi-girth of the neck, Ssh \u003d 18.1
• First half-girth of the chest, Cr1 \u003d 43.8
• Semi-girth of the second chest, Cr2 \u003d 48
• Waist half girth, St \u003d 37.8
• Half hip, Sat \u003d 52
• Back width, Shs \u003d 18
• First chest width, Wg1 \u003d 17.1
• Second chest width, Wg2 \u003d 21.3
• Center of chest, Tsg \u003d 9.5
• Back length to waist line, Dst \u003d 38.2
• Product length, Di \u003d 105
• Sprout height, Bp \u003d 41
• Breast height, Bg \u003d 27
• Front length to the waist line, Dpt \u003d 43.2
• Back shoulder height, Vps \u003d 40
• Front shoulder height, runway \u003d 23
• Shoulder girth, Op \u003d 29.1
• Wrist girth, Oz \u003d 15.9
• Shoulder length, Dp \u003d 13.5
• Sleeve length, Dr \u003d 57.4

When building a drawing, the following allowances for free fitting are given, see:

• Semi-girth of the neck, Psh \u003d 1
• Semi-girth of the second chest, Pg \u003d 4
• Waist half girth, Fri \u003d 2
• Semi-hip girth, PB \u003d 3

In the upper left corner of the sheet of paper, put point A, corresponding to the 7th cervical vertebra on the human figure. From point A, draw down a vertical line corresponding to the middle of the back, and on it lay a segment AH equal to the measure of the length of the product:

AH \u003d Di \u003d 105 cm.

Mark the position of the waist line:

AT \u003d Dst \u003d 38.2 cm.

Chest lines:

AG \u003d Dst: 2 \u003d 38.2: 2 \u003d 19.1 cm.

Hip lines:

TB \u003d Dst: 2 \u003d 38.2: 2 \u003d 19.1 cm.

Note. Particular attention should be paid to a figure with thickened hips at the bottom (reminiscent of breeches in the shape of trousers). In this case, you need to take a measurement that determines the distance from the waist line to the line passing along the highest points of the breeches.

From points G, T, B and H, draw horizontal lines of arbitrary length to the right perpendicular to the segment AH.

From point G, to the right along the chest line, the width of the product ГГ 1 equal to the measurement of the half-girth of the chest of the second plus 4 cm increase for free fit:

GG 1 \u003d Cr2 + Pg \u003d 48 + 4 \u003d 52 cm.

Through point D 1, draw a vertical line corresponding to the middle of the front and parallel to the middle of the back, at its intersections with the horizontal lines put points T 1, B 1 and H 1.

Back and shelf (Figure 63a, b)

Back width (Figure 63a). From the point G, to the right along the chest line, a segment of the GS, equal to the measure of the width of the back, plus 1/4 of the increase for free fitting:

GS \u003d Shs + Pg: 4 \u003d 18 + 4: 4 \u003d 19cm.

Sprout height. From point T, lay a segment TP upward along the vertical line, equal to the measure of the height of the germ, and with this radius from point T draw an arc to the right (dashed line in the figure).

TR \u003d Bp \u003d 41 cm.

Note. To draw an arc of the appropriate radius, you can use a radius ruler (Figure 63c), made from an ordinary ruler, 45-60 cm long and 4-6 cm wide with graduations applied to it. On the right side of the ruler, opposite the divisions of whole centimeters, and on the left side, opposite the divisions of 0.5 cm, pierce or drill small through holes for the pencil lead. At the zero mark of the ruler, make a hole for the tip of the needle (awl, etc.), which will be the center of the circle. Stick the tip of the needle into the starting point T on the waistline, and insert the pencil lead into the hole opposite the desired division and draw an arc to the right. Draw arcs from other starting points in the same way.

Sprout width. From point P, to the right along the arc, set aside segment PP 1, equal to the measurement of the half-girth of the neck, divided by 3, plus 1/2 of the increase for free fitting:

RR 1 \u003d Ssh: 3 + Psh: 2 \u003d 18: 3 + 1: 2 \u003d 6.5 cm.

Draw out the sprout by connecting the points P 1 and A with a smooth line.

Note. For a figure with fatty deposits in the region of the 7th cervical vertebra or with other physical disabilities, for a better fit of the back, it is recommended to increase the width of the sprout by the dart solution, i.e. by 1-2.5 cm, and build it in the middle of the width of the sprout 5-7 cm long. Reduce the solution of the dart along the shoulder cut or replace it by planting the fabric.

The length of the shoulder section of the back. From point P 1, to the right along the arc, lay off the segment P 1 P, equal to the measure of the length of the shoulder:

P 1 P \u003d Dp \u003d 13.5 cm.

Connect points P and C with a straight line, continuing it beyond the chest line down arbitrarily.

Back shoulder height. From point T, postpone the TO segment up to the intersection with the PS segment, equal to the measurement of the shoulder back height (in the figure, the dash-dot line):

TO \u003d Vps \u003d 40 cm.

Note. The measurements taken from the figure of the height of the sprout Bp and the height of the shoulder of the back VPS make it possible to take into account the features of the figure (stooped, kinky, with high or low shoulders, etc.).

Shoulder section of the back. From point O, restore to the right the perpendicular to the PS line, on which to set aside 2.5-3.5 cm (for the solution of the shoulder dart and the back seat in the shoulder seam) and put point O 1.

To determine the location of the shoulder dart, divide the P 1 P segment into three equal parts, and for a figure with sloping shoulders - into two, and set aside 2-3 cm from the left dividing point to the right - the solution of the shoulder dart (0.5 cm is distributed for landing) ... Make a shoulder cut by connecting points 2-3 and O 1 with a straight line.

Note. For a figure with protruding shoulder blades, it is recommended to increase the solution of the shoulder dart to 4-5 cm and instead of one dart build two with a distance of 3-3.5 cm between them. The length of the shoulder dart should be 3 times its solution. When building two darts, make the second one shorter by 1 cm.

Armhole depth. From point O, put a segment down along the PS line (OD 1, equal to 1/2 of the measurement of the shoulder girth, plus an increase in free fitting to the measurement of the half-girth of the chest of the second, minus 1 cm:

OD 1 \u003d Op: 2+ (Pg-1) \u003d 29.1: 2+ (4-1) \u003d 17.6 cm.

Note. The depth of the armhole can be determined as follows: from point A, lay down along the line of the middle of the back a segment AH equal to 1/4 of the measurement of the length of the back to the waist line plus 1/4 of the measurement of the half-girth of the chest of the first:

AG \u003d Dst: 4 + Cr1: 4 \u003d 38.2: 4 + 43.8: 4 \u003d 20.5 cm.

From point G, draw a horizontal line to the right to the intersection with the middle line of the front - the chest line.

Armhole width. From point P 1, draw a straight line to the right, parallel to the chest line, and on it set aside a segment P 1 P 2, equal to the measurement of the shoulder girth, divided by 3, plus 1/2 of the increase for free fitting:

P 1 P 2 \u003d Op: 3 + Pg: 2 \u003d 29.1: 3 + 4: 2 \u003d 11.7 cm.

Control marks for connecting the sleeve to the armhole. From point P 1 along the line PS, set aside a segment P 1 P 3 equal to 1/2 the width of the armhole plus 1 cm:

P 1 P 3 \u003d P 1 P 2: 2 + 1 \u003d 11.7: 2 + 1 \u003d 6.9 cm.

From point P2, restore the perpendicular upward, on which to lay off the segment P2 P 4 equal to 1/2 of the width of the armhole:

P 2 P 4 \u003d P 1 P 2: 2 \u003d 11.7: 2 \u003d 5.9 cm.

At points P 3 and P 4, on the details of the pattern (patterns), put control marks.

Neck height (Figure 63b). From point T 1, lay down a segment T 1 B, equal to the measure of the length of the front to the waist line, up along the line of the middle of the front, and draw the arc from the point T 1 to the left with the resulting radius using the radius ruler (in the figure, the dashed line):

T 1 B \u003d Dpt \u003d 43.2 cm.

Note. If the measurement of the length of the front to the waistline is 6-10 cm more than the measurement of the length of the back to the waistline by 6-10 cm, then from the point T 1 set aside 1/4 of the difference between these measurements and from the obtained point with a radius equal to the measurement of Dpt to the left arc.

Neck width. From point B, to the left along the arc, set aside a segment BB 1, equal to 1/3 of the measurement of the half-girth of the neck, plus 1/2 of the increase for free fitting:

BB 1 \u003d Ssh: 3 + Psh: 2 \u003d 18.1: 3 + 1: 2 \u003d 6.5 cm.

Neck depth. From point B along the line of the middle of the front, lay down a segment BB 2 equal to the width of the neck plus 1 cm.

BB 2 \u003d BB 1 + 1 \u003d 6.5 + 1 \u003d 7.5 cm.

Decorate the neck. To do this, connect points B 1 and B 2 with a straight line. Divide the resulting segment in half, restore the perpendicular to the left from the division point, on which to lay 1/4 of the length of this segment:

B 1 B 2: 4 \u003d 2.3 cm.

Connect points B 1, 2,3 and B 2 with a smooth line.

Shoulder length from the high point of the neck to the right line of the bust. From point B 1, put off to the left along the arc a segment B 1 in equal to 1/3 of the measurement of the length of the shoulder:

B 1 in \u003d DP: 3 \u003d 13.5: 3 \u003d 4.5 cm.

Chest dart. From point Г 1, to the left along the chest line, a segment Г 1 Г 2, equal to the measurement of the center of the chest plus 0.5 cm:

G 1 G 2 \u003d Tsg + 0.5 \u003d 9.5 + 0.5 \u003d 10 cm.

Connect points B 1 and G 2 with a straight line (in the figure, a dash-dot line), continuing it down arbitrarily, and on it from point B 1 lay down a segment B 1 in 1, equal to the measure of the height of the chest:

B 1 in 1 \u003d Bg \u003d 27 cm.

The end of the breast dart should correspond to the position of the most prominent point of the breast. Connect points at and at 1 (right breast dart line). From point b, lay off to the left along an arc a segment bc 2, equal to the doubled difference between the measurements of the second and first half-girths of the chest plus 2-3 cm:

cc 2 \u003d (Cr2-Cr1) * 2 + 2 ~ 3 \u003d (48-43.8) * 2 + 2 ~ 3 \u003d 10.4 ~ 11.4 cm.

Connect points at 1 and 2 (left line of the chest dart), align the segment along the right line of the chest dart and put a point at 3.

Note. The darts do not have a permanent location, but they are an important structural element. With the help of darts, you can give the product the desired shape.

Shoulder length from the left line of the chest dart to the armhole. From the point at 2, to the left along the arc, set aside a segment of 2 O 2, equal to the remainder of the measurement of the length of the shoulder:

in 2 O 2 \u003d DP-4.5 \u003d 13.5-4.5 \u003d 9 cm.

Connect points O 2 and P 4.

Shelf shoulder height. From the point at 1, postpone to the left-up the segment at 1 O 3 until it intersects with the segment O 2 P 4 equal to the measurement of the shoulder height (in the figure, the dash-dot line):

in 1 O 3 \u003d Vpp \u003d 23 cm.

Shoulder cut of the shelf. To design the shoulder cut, connect points B 1 and B, 3 and O 3 with straight lines, and then specify the length of the shoulder cut according to the taken measurement.

Back armhole and shelf design. Divide the right angle P 1 in half and set aside the segment P 1 3 on the dividing line of the angle, equal to 1/4 of the width of the armhole:

P 1 3 \u003d P 1 P 2: 4 \u003d 11.7: 4 \u003d 3 cm.

On the dividing line of the angle P 2, set aside a segment P 2 2.5 equal to 1/4 of the width of the armhole minus 0.5 cm:

P 2 2.5 \u003d P1 P2: 4-0.5 \u003d 11.7: 4-0.5 \u003d 2.5 cm.

Divide the segment O 3 P 4 in half. From the point of division, restore the perpendicular to the right, on which to set aside 0.5-1 cm.From point P 1, set to the right the segment P 1 P 5, equal to 1/2 of the width of the armhole:

P 1 P 5 \u003d P 1 P 2: 2 \u003d 11.7: 2 \u003d 5.9 cm.

Decorate the armhole with a smooth line, connecting the points O 1, P 3, 3, P 5, 2.5, P 4, 0.5-1 and O 3.

Note. The depth of the armhole should ensure freedom of movement of the hand, as well as convenience when putting on the product. Measure the armhole line in the drawing or pattern (Figure 63d), which should be equal to the measured shoulder girth plus 13-14 cm:

Op + 13 ~ 14 \u003d 29.1 + 13 ~ 14 \u003d 42.1 ~ 43.1 cm.

If the measured measurement turns out to be larger than the armhole line, its depth should be reduced by 0.5-2 cm (dashed line in the figure), and if less, the depth of the armhole should be increased accordingly (dash-dotted line in the figure).

Check the width of the shelf by measuring the width of the first chest at the level of 1/2 of the length of the chest dart from the middle of the front to the armhole, without taking into account the size of the dart solution, and by measuring the width of the second chest - at the level of the end of the chest dart also from the middle of the front to the armhole (dashed lines in the figure) ... The width of the shelf should correspond to the measurements of the width of the chest or be wider by 0.5-1 cm.

The position of the side slices. From point P 5 (the middle of the armhole) draw down a line perpendicular to the line P 1 P 2 until it intersects with the waist line and put point t.

Note. The position and shape of the side seams in clothes change depending on the physique, silhouette, type of clothing, cut of sleeves, location of darts and the presence of other seams. For products with one-piece and raglan sleeves, the side seam should be in the middle of the armhole. In products with set-in sleeves, the position of the side seam depends on the model. On the line of the width of the armhole P 1 P 2, the side seam can be located in the extreme left position - pass through point P 1 or even go to the back by 0.5-1 cm.For a full figure, the side seam is recommended to move from point P 5 to the left by 1 , 5-2 cm, and on the shelf instead of one waist tuck, build two, stepping back from the armhole (point 2.5) to the right by 3-6 cm.

For a figure with narrow hips, position the side seam at the level of half the width of the armhole or move it along the width of the armhole, as mentioned above, and from the resulting point draw a line parallel to the line of the middle of the back until it intersects with the bottom line.

In the products of adjacent and semi-adjacent silhouettes, the side seams of the back and shelves to a greater or lesser extent repeat the contours of the figure, and straight and free silhouettes are straight lines. The correct position of the side cuts ensures a good fit to the product. It is necessary to ensure that the lines of the waist, hips, bottom of the back and the shelves are aligned along the side cuts. The side seam should run vertically along the side of the torso.

Calculation of the solution of waist darts and their distribution in fitted products. Distribute the difference between the width of the product along the chest line and the measurement of the waist half-girth with an increase in free fitting between the darts on the back and the shelf and the side sections of the back and the shelf:

(Cr2 + Pg) - (St + Pt) \u003d (48 + 4) - (37.8 + 2) \u003d 12 cm.

Distribute 1/5 of the resulting difference in the side sections of the backrest and shelves (side dart):

Back dart - 1/4 difference:

The remainder is for the tuck of the shelf:

12-2.4 * 2-3 \u003d 4.2 cm.

Note. The solution of chest darts depends on the size of the difference between the measurements of the half-girths of the chest of the first and second, the waistline - between the measurements of the half-girth of the chest of the second and the waist, as well as the allowance for free fitting and the properties of the fabric. If the fabric does not lend itself well to wet heat treatment, it is recommended to make additional darts (without changing the amount of their solutions). If the difference is greater than the sum of the solutions of all the darts, two waist darts are built on the back and on the shelf.

A solution of a side dart for adjacent products is recommended no more than 2.5 cm, for semi-adjacent products - no more than 2 cm. In adjacent products, the ends of the darts should be directed to the most protruding parts of the figure. The length of the darts is also determined by the shape of the product: the shorter the darts, the more pronounced the fit. However, the darts should not be shorter than 20 cm (10 cm up and down from the waist line). For semi-adjacent products, the solution of the darts decreases, and their length increases or the darts are replaced with reliefs, which give the product a melting shape.

Side slices (at the level of the hip line). On the back from point B, put to the right a segment of BB 2, equal to the measurement of the half-girth of the hips, plus an increase in free fit, divided in half, minus 1 cm:

BB 2 \u003d (Sat + PB): 2-1 \u003d (52 + 3): 2-1 \u003d 26.5 cm.

On the shelf from point B, set aside segment B 1 B 3 to the left, equal to the measurement of the half-girth of the hips, plus an increase in free fit, minus segment BB 2.

B 1 B 3 \u003d Sat + Pb-BB 2 \u003d 52 + 3-26.5 \u003d 28.5 cm.

Note. For a full figure with a narrow back, calculate the width of the back and the shelf along the hip line as follows: distribute the difference between the measurement of the half-girth of the hips with an increase in free fitting and the width of the product along the chest line equally:

Sat + Pb- (Cr2 + Pg): 2 \u003d 52 + 3- (48 + 4): 2 \u003d 1.5 cm.

Add the resulting difference to the width of the back and shelf:

BB 2 \u003d GP 5 +1.5; B 1 B 3 \u003d D 1 P 5 +1.5

Making side cuts. From point t to the left and to the right, set aside the tuck solution - 2.4 cm each. Connect point P 5 with points 2.4. Along the lines drawn, put 1 cm up from the waist line.Points 1 connect with points B 1 and B 3 with smooth lines, continuing them to the bottom line parallel to the lines of the middle of the back and front for a straight silhouette, and for products of adjacent and semi-adjacent silhouettes, expand the back and shelf along the bottom line by 2-5 cm.

Back darts. Divide the waist line (segment TT) into three equal parts, and the hip line (segment BB 2) in half. Connect the left division point on the waist line with the division point on the hips and divide the resulting segment into four equal parts. Connect the left dividing points of the waist line and the shoulder cut.

To design a shoulder dart from the line of the shoulder cut, set the length of the dart equal to 6-9 cm down along the drawn line. Connect points 6-9 and 2-3.

To design a waist dart, set aside the dart solution to the right of the drawn line along the waist line, and 6 cm from the chest line downward. Connect point 3 with point 6 and with the lower dividing point of the dart side.

Waist tuck of the shelf. Continue the right line of the bust dart (segment 1 in) until it intersects with the waist line. Connect the resulting point with the dividing point of the thigh line (B 1 B 3) and divide this line in half. From the dividing point, lay down 3 cm.Along the waistline, lay the dart solution to the left of the intersection point 4.2 cm, and from the end of the breast dart downwards - 5 cm.Connect point 4.2 with points 5 and 3.

One-seam straight sleeve (Figure 64a)

OH \u003d Dr \u003d 57.4 cm.

Okat height. From point O (center of the okat), lay down a segment of OB equal to the depth of the armhole minus 1-2 cm down the dash-dot line:

RH \u003d 15.7-1 ~ 2 \u003d 14.7 ~ 13.7 cm.

Note. To determine the depth of the armhole (Figure 63d), connect its vertices to each other (points O and O 3), divide the resulting segment in half, connect the dividing point with point P 5, and use this segment to determine the depth of the armhole. The depth of the armhole is taken as the basis for determining the height of the sleeve ridge, which, depending on the cut, is equal to or less than the depth of the armhole.

The height of the okat can be defined as a value equal to the measurement of the shoulder girth plus 10 cm (for all sizes) divided by 3, plus 0.5 cm:

OR \u003d (Op + 10): 3 + 0.5 \u003d (29.1 + 10): 3 + 0.5 \u003d 13.5 cm.

Elbow line.

OL \u003d OH: 2 + 4 \u003d 57.4: 2 + 4 \u003d 32.7 cm.

Draw parallel horizontal lines of arbitrary length to the right and left through points O, B, L and H.

Width at the top. Segment B 1 B 2 is equal to three times the width of the armhole (segment P 1 P 2 in Figure 63a, b):

B 1 B 2 \u003d P 1 P 2 * 3 \u003d 11.7 * 3 \u003d 35.1 cm.

or measurement of shoulder girth plus 3-5 cm (for a narrower sleeve):

B 1 B 2 \u003d Op + 3 ~ 5 \u003d 29.1 + 3 ~ 5 \u003d 32.1 ~ 34.1 cm.

BB 1 \u003d BB 2 \u003d 35.1: 2 \u003d 17.5 cm.

Divide the resulting segments in half and put points B 3 and B 4.

From points B 1, B 3, B 4 and B 2 draw down vertical lines perpendicular to line B 2 B 1 and put points L 1, L 2, L 3 and L 4 at their intersection with the line of the elbow, and at the intersection with the line bottom - points H 1, H 2 and H 3.

For a single-seam straight sleeve, narrow the back and front cuts along the elbow line from points L 1 and L 4 by 1 cm (dash-dot lines in the figure). Extend the sleeve along the elbow line by 2-3 cm. Draw the bottom with a smooth line.

Okat decoration. To decorate the okat sleeves from point O (center of the okat), set aside 2 cm to the left and right (for all sizes). Divide the segment B 2 B 4 in half, connect the division point with the left point 2 and divide the resulting segment into three equal parts. From the upper point of division, restore the perpendicular to the left, on which to set aside 1-1.5 cm, divide the lower segment in half. Decorate the back of the sleeve by connecting points 2, 1-1.5, divisions and B 2 with a smooth line. Divide the segment B 1 B 3 into three equal parts, connect the left dividing point with the right thin 2 and divide the resulting segment into three equal parts. From the top point of division, restore the perpendicular to the right, on which to set aside 1.5-2 cm, divide the bottom segment in half. Draw out the ridge of the front part of the sleeve, connecting points 2, 1.5-2, divisions and B 1 with a smooth line.

One-suture sleeve, tapered downward (Figure 64a)

Decorate the okat in the same way as a single-seam straight sleeve.

Front fold line. From point L 2 to the left along the line of the elbow 2 cm, and from point H 2 along the line of the bottom - 1 cm. Points B 3 and 1 connect with point 2 (dashed line in the figure). Measure the width of the sleeve between points L and 2, H and 1. From the front fold line set aside these values \u200b\u200bto the right and draw the front cut of the sleeve with a smooth line.

Elbow bend line. From point L 3, set aside 0.5-2 cm to the right, and along the bottom line from point 1 - segment 1H 4, equal to the measurement of the girth of the wrist plus 6 cm, divided in half:

1H 4 \u003d (Oz + 6): 2 \u003d (15.9 + 6): 2 \u003d 11 cm.

Connect points 0.5-2 and H 4 with a dashed line. Measure the width of the sleeve between the points: 0.5-2 and L, H 4 and N. From the line of the elbow, put these values \u200b\u200bto the left and draw the back cut of the sleeve.

Extend the sleeve along the back cut line by 2-2.5 cm and build an elbow dart with a solution of 2-2.5 cm, up to point L 3. Decorate the bottom of the sleeve by connecting points 2-2.5 and 1 with a straight line.

One-suture sleeve with a seam moved forward (Figure 64b)

On a sheet of paper, build a right angle with the apex at point A. From point A, lay down a segment AH along the vertical line, equal to the measure of the length of the sleeve:

AH \u003d Dr \u003d 57.4 cm.

Okat height. From point A, lay down the segment AB down the vertical line, equal to the depth of the armhole minus 1-2 cm (Figure 63d):

AB \u003d 15.7-1 ~ 2 \u003d 13.7 ~ 14.7 cm.

Elbow line. Divide the length of the sleeve (segment AH) in half, put 4 cm down from the point of division and put point L:

AL \u003d AN: 2 + 4 \u003d 57.4: 2 + 4 \u003d 32.7 cm.

Through points B, L and H, draw parallel horizontal lines of arbitrary length to the right and left.

Width at the top. It is equal to the measurement of the shoulder girth plus a 6-7 cm increase in free fit:

Op + 6 ~ 7 \u003d 29.1 + 6 ~ 7 \u003d 35.1 ~ 36.1 cm.

From point A, to the left, set aside segment AA 1, equal to 1/2 of the sleeve width:

AA 1 \u003d 36.1: 2 \u003d 18 cm.

Draw a vertical line down from point A 1 and put points B 1 and L 1 at its intersections with horizontal lines. From point B, to the right, set aside a segment BB 2 equal to 5 cm, and from point B 1 to the left - a segment B 1 B 3 equal to 13 cm:

B 1 B 3 \u003d 36.1-BB 2 -AA 1 \u003d 36.1-18-5 \u003d 13 cm.

Front fold line. From point L, set aside 2 cm to the left, and from point H - 1 cm. Connect points 1 and B to point 2 (dashed line in the figure).

Front cut. From points 2 and 1 set aside 5 cm to the right. Connect points B 2 5 (on the elbow line and on the bottom line).

Elbow bend line. From point 1 on the front fold line, lay off to the left a 1H 1 segment equal to 1/2 of the sleeve width at the bottom. The width of the sleeve at the bottom is equal to the measurement of the wrist circumference plus 6-7 cm for an increase in free fit:

(15.9 + 6 ~ 7): 1H 1 \u003d 21.9 ~ 22.9: 1H 1 \u003d 22.9: 2 \u003d 11.4 cm.

From point L 1 set aside 1 cm to the right. Connect points B 1, 1 and H 1 (dashed line in the figure).

Elbow width. From point 1, put off to the left a segment 1L 2 equal to 2/3 of the length of the segment B 1 B 3:

1L 2 \u003d B 1 B 3: 3 * 2 \u003d 13: 3 * 2 \u003d 8.6 cm.

Width at the bottom. From the point H 1, put off to the left a segment H 1 H 2 equal to 1/2 of the sleeve width minus 5 cm:

H 1 H 2 \u003d 22.9: 2-5 \u003d 6.5 cm.

Connect points B 3 and L 2. Build an elbow dart with a solution of 2.5 cm, 8 cm long.Then connect points 2.5 and H 2, lengthening the back edge of the sleeve by 2.5 cm.Form out the bottom of the sleeve by connecting points 2.5 and H.

Okat decoration. Cut segment AA 1 in half and put point O (center of the okat). Divide the OA segment in half, and the segments AB and A 1 B 1 into three equal parts. Connect the dividing point of the segment OA and the lower dividing point of the segment AB, divide the resulting segment in half. Draw out the ridge of the front part of the sleeve, connecting the points O, divisions and B 2 with a smooth line. Connect the upper division point of the segment A 1 B 2 with points O and B 3. Divide the resulting segments in half. From the upper dividing point, set aside 1 cm.From the lower dividing point, lower the perpendicular down, on which to set aside 1.5-2 cm.Require the back of the sleeve by connecting the points O, 1 and divisions, as well as points 1.5-2 and In 3 smooth lines.

One-seam straight sleeve for a figure with full arms (Figure 64c)

The design drawing of this sleeve is built according to the measurements taken in the same way as a single-seam straight sleeve (Figure 64a). It is only necessary to make changes in the design of the sleeve ridge: connect the left point 2 (at point O) and B 2, divide the resulting segment into three equal parts. From the upper dividing point, restore the perpendicular to the left, on which to set aside 1-1.5 cm.From the midpoint of dividing, set aside 2 cm down in a straight line, divide the segment between this point and B 2 in half, restore the perpendicular to the right from the dividing point, on which to set 1 cm. Draw out the back of the sleeve by connecting points 2, 1-1.5, 2, 1 and B 2 with a smooth line.

Divide segment B 1 B 3 in half, connect the division point with the right point 2 (at point O) and divide the resulting segment into three equal parts. Set aside 2-2.5 cm from the upper division point to the right, divide the lower segment in half. Draw out the ridge of the front part of the sleeve, connecting points 2, 2-2.5, divisions and B 1 with a smooth line.

Note. Fabrics made from soft woolen or silk fabrics have a larger sleeves fit than fabrics made from cotton fabrics. In dresses for the home and dressing gowns, the sleeves should be made wider, and the excess width of the ridge (1.5-4 cm) must be taken into the dart in the center of the ridge. The length of the dart is 4-8 cm. Check the width of the sleeve along the line of the elbow by taking an additional measurement of the girth of the arm below the elbow along its fullest part. Add 3 cm to the resulting measurement for a free fit (optional) and, accordingly, expand the sleeve along the elbow line.

One-seam sleeve, tapered at the bottom, for a figure with full arms (Figure 64c)

The sequence for constructing a drawing of the structure of this sleeve is similar to the construction of a drawing of a single-seam sleeve narrowed downwards (Figure 64a), and the design of the sleeve ridge is similar to that of a single-seam straight sleeve for a figure with full arms (Figure 64c).

Two-seam sleeve (figure 64g)

On a sheet of paper, draw a vertical dash-dot line and on it lay off a segment OH equal to the measurement of the length of the sleeve:

OH \u003d DR \u003d 57.4 cm.

Okat height. From point O (center of the okat), lay down a segment of OB, equal to the measurement of the shoulder girth plus 10 cm (for all sizes), divided by 3, plus 1-2 cm down the dash-dot line:

OB \u003d (Op + 10): 3 + 1 ~ 2 \u003d (29.1 + 10): 3 + 1 ~ 2 \u003d 14 ~ 15cm.

Elbow line. Divide the length of the sleeve (segment OH) in half, put 4 cm down from the dividing point and put point L:

OL \u003d OH: 2 + 4 \u003d 57.4: 2 + 4 \u003d 32.7 cm.

Draw horizontal parallel lines of arbitrary length to the right and left through points O, B, L and H.

Width at the top. The segment B 1 B 2 is equal to the measurement of the shoulder girth plus 3 cm increase for free fit:

B 1 B 2 \u003d Op + Pp \u003d 29.1 + 3 \u003d 32.1 cm.

From point B set aside to the right and left the segments BB 1 and BB 2 equal to 1/2 of the sleeve width:

BB 1 \u003d BB 2 \u003d 32.1: 2 \u003d 16 cm.

Divide the resulting segments in half and put points B 3 and B 4. Through these points, draw vertical lines up and down, parallel to the OH segment, at the intersections with the horizontal lines, put points A, L 1, H 1 and A 1, L 2.

Okat decoration. To decorate the sleeve, cut the OA and B 2 B 4 segments in half. From point O, set aside 2 cm to the left (for all sizes). Connect point 2 and the division point of segment B 2 B 4. Divide the resulting segment into three equal parts. From the upper division point, restore the perpendicular to the left, on which to set aside 1.5-2 cm, and divide the lower segment in half. Draw an ridge of the back of the sleeve by connecting points 2, 1.5-2, divisions and B 2 with a smooth line. Segment AB 3, divide into three equal parts and from the lower point of division put down 1 cm. Connect point 1 and the point of division of the segment OA, divide the resulting segment in half. Draw out the ridge of the front part of the sleeve, connecting the points O, divisions, 1 and B 1.

Top part. In order for the anterior and elbow seams to be invisible, they must be positioned at some distance from the lines of the anterior and elbow folds. For the front fold from points B 3 and H 1, set aside 2-3 cm to the right. Draw up the front cut of the sleeve by connecting points 2-3 (on the lines of the depth of the ridge and bottom) with point L 1. The distance to the front fold can be increased at the bottom by 0.5-1 cm compared to the distance at the top, while reducing the deflection along the elbow line by 0.5-1 cm.

To design the bottom of the sleeve from point 2-3, set aside a 2-3H 2 segment to the left, equal to 2/3 of the measurement of the girth of the wrist, plus a 6 cm increase for a free fit:

2-3H 2 \u003d ((Oz + 6): 3) * 2 \u003d ((15.9 + 6): 3) * 2 \u003d 14.6 cm.

The line of the elbow cut of the upper part. From point L 2, put to the left the segment L 2 L 3, equal to 1/4 of the length of the segment B 2 B 4 minus 1 cm.Connect point L 3 with the dividing point of the segment B 2 B 4, continuing the line up to the edge of the sleeve, and down - behind elbow line by 2 cm. Then connect points 2 and H 2, continuing the line down by 2 cm. Decorate the bottom of the sleeve by connecting the resulting point 2 with point H 1.

Bottom part (shaded in the figure). To design the front cut from points B 3 and H 1, set aside 2-3 cm to the left (the width of the roll) and from the obtained points draw lines parallel to the front cut of the upper part of the sleeve until it intersects with the elbow line. Align the length of the cut along the top of the sleeve.

The line of the elbow cut of the lower part. Divide the BB 4 segment in half, and the LL 2 segment - into three equal parts. From the front cut of the lower part (points 2-3) set aside to the left the remainder of the sleeve width along the bottom line:

15.9 + 6-14.6 \u003d 7.3 cm.

and put the point H 3. Connect the left point of division of segment LL 2 with point H 3 and with the point of division of segment BB 4, continuing the line up. Align the elbow cut from the elbow line to the ridge along the elbow cut of the upper part of the sleeve. Draw out the ridge of the lower part of the sleeve with a smooth line.

To obtain, on the basis of this drawing, a straight single-seam sleeve from points B 1 and B 2, draw down lines parallel to the OH segment, and draw the bottom of the sleeve, as shown in Figure 64d.

Two-seam sleeve for a figure with full arms (Figure 64c)

The design drawing of this sleeve is based on the drawing of a single-seam sleeve, tapered at the bottom, for a figure with full arms.

Top part. In order for the anterior and elbow seams to be invisible, they must be positioned at some distance from the anterior and elbow fold lines.

To design the front fold line from points B 3, and 1 (along the bottom line), set aside 3 cm to the right.From the points obtained, draw straight, parallel lines of the front fold (dashed line) to the intersection with the elbow line and the sleeve ridge.

To design the ulnar cut of the upper part of the sleeve from the midpoint of the division of the OV 2 segment, set aside 2 cm down, and from the H 4 point to the left - 1 cm.Points 2 and 1 should be connected to the L 3 point (on the elbow line).

Bottom part (shaded in the figure). To design the front cut of the lower part of the sleeve from point B, to the right, set aside a segment equal to segment 3B 1, and from points L and H - segments equal to the width of the sleeve from the front fold line to the front cut line. Connect the resulting points and align the segments along the front bend line.

To design the ulnar cut from point B, put to the left a segment equal to the segment between point B 2 and the elbow cut of the upper part of the sleeve (a line drawn from point 2). Connect the resulting point and point H 4 with point 1 on the elbow line. From line B 1 B 2 (width at the top) equalize the elbow slices of both parts (the ulnar slice of the lower part should be 1 cm shorter than the elbow slice of the upper one). After that, draw out the sleeves with a smooth line.