What are the origin of fragrant substances. Fragrant substances. Questions for consolidation

Sources of aromatic substances

Sources of obtaining aromatic substances used in the food industry:

1. essential oils and infusions,

2. natural fruit and vegetable juices, including concentrated ones;

3. spices and products of their processing;

4. chemical and microbiological synthesis.

The resulting aroma-forming substances in most cases are a mixture of compounds (natural or artificially obtained), and only in some cases are they individual compounds. The creation of aroma-forming compositions can be carried out in various ways. Considering that, in most cases, aromatic substances are complex mixtures of compounds, this requires special approaches to their hygienic assessment. Let us dwell on the main sources of obtaining aroma-forming and chemical compounds that make up their composition.

Essential oils (Essentialoils; Huilesessentielles; Äthenscheöle) - odorous liquid mixtures of volatile organic substances produced by plants and causing their smell. Essential oils are multicomponent mixtures with a predominance of one or more components. In total, more than a thousand individual compounds have been isolated from essential oils. The chemical composition of essential oils is not constant. The content of individual components varies widely even for plants of the same species and depends on the place of growth, the climatic features of the year, the stage of vegetation and the timing of the harvesting of raw materials, the characteristics of post-harvest processing, the duration and conditions of storage of raw materials, the technology of their isolation and processing.

The chemical nature of the compounds that make up essential oils is very diverse and includes compounds belonging to different classes:

1. hydrocarbons;

2. alcohols;

3. phenols and their derivatives;

4. acids;

5. ethers and esters;

6. polyfunctional compounds.

They are based on terpenoids - terpenes and their oxygen-containing derivatives. They include remains of isoprene fragments and have a polyisoprene skeleton: C10H16(C5H8)2.

Terpenes can be aliphatic terpenes and contain three double bonds; monocyclic terpenes; bicyclic terpenes, as well as their numerous and varied oxygen-containing derivatives. Below are the main representatives of the compound groups.

The above, as well as other chemical components that make up essential oils, may be present in varying amounts, their composition and content is affected by the method of isolation from plants.

The main methods for isolating essential oils from raw materials:

1. steam stripping;

2. extraction with organic solvents followed by their distillation;

3. absorption with fresh fat "fleur-d" orange, or maceration;

4. CO2 extraction;

5. cold pressing.

Individual natural aromatic components are isolated from natural raw materials by distillation or freezing methods, as well as by biotechnological methods.

Each of these methods has its advantages and disadvantages and significantly affects the composition of the resulting products. When choosing a method of extraction, the content and composition of essential oils, the characteristics of raw materials are taken into account. To isolate essential oils, raw materials are used (for example, lavender flowers, lilac green mass), dried (mint) or dried (iris) raw materials subjected to enzymatic treatment (roses). Essential oils are colorless or green, yellow, yellow-brown liquids. Density less than unity. Poorly or insoluble in water, readily soluble in non-polar or low-polar organic solvents. Essential oils in the light, under the influence of atmospheric oxygen, are easily oxidized. The concentration of essential oils varies from 0.1% (in rose flowers) to 20% (in clove buds). For the analysis of fatty oils, gas-liquid and liquid chromatography methods are currently used.

The wide development of organic chemistry and chemical synthesis in the XX century. made it possible to synthesize many components of essential oils, to make them more accessible and cheaper, to create a wide variety of aromatic mixtures and their combinations, often using natural essential oils.

LECTURE 8 AROMATIC ESSENCES. PRODUCTION OF FOOD FLAVORS. QUALITY CONTROL.

Essence - liquid flavoring in the food industry.

Liquid flavors are most commonly used in the food industry. Aromatic substances that are dissolved in various liquids used to be called essences. In accordance with the new GOST, this definition has been replaced by the term "food flavors". They are all the same essential oil essences of various substances.

Consider such a popular liquid flavor in our time as liquid smoke. It is actively used to give the effect of smoking to various products. And until now, you can face the fact that even professional technologists, like home cooks, have absolutely no idea how the smoke is “pushed into the water”. You can hear the opinion that liquid smoke is a chemistry that has absolutely nothing to do with the natural smoking of fish and meat. But in fact, everything is much simpler. The wood is ground into sawdust. They are placed in an oven and burned. In parallel, the water is brought to a certain temperature, and its vapors enter the containers, which also receive smoke from burning sawdust. In these containers, the process of mixing water and smoke takes place. The output is a product that is called "liquid smoke". There is no chemistry in it.

To this it should be added that tars and carcinogens - non-combustible substances found in smoke, do not dissolve and do not mix in water. Insoluble substances are removed during further processing. This means that liquid smoke is more environmentally friendly than campfire smoke. It is for this reason that in some countries smoking in the traditional way was banned altogether, because during industrial smoking a lot of carcinogens are released into the atmosphere. In these countries, the only method of smoking is liquid smoke.

Of the synthetic aromatics, food essences and vanillin are the most commonly used.

Essences - artificial food flavorings created in an industrial way; are synthetic aldehydes.

To obtain a natural taste and aroma characteristic of a product, chemical components are mixed in appropriate proportions. The number of ingredients reaches 10-15, most of them are synthetic fragrances. It is not very easy to achieve an exact resemblance to a natural aroma. The greatest similarity is often achieved by adding natural aromatic substances, but not more than 25%. They increase the strength of the aroma several times.

Among natural additives, juices, essential oils, and infusions are most often used. The creation of synthetic essences is controlled by the Ministry of Health of the Russian Federation. They are subject to GOSTs and TU. Production is allowed at special enterprises. The most common essences are: apricot, apple, pear, strawberry, banana, orange, cherry, lemon, raspberry and others.

Aromatic food essences, synthetic aromatic substances used in the food industry to give some products the appropriate flavor. They are complex compositions, which sometimes include up to 10-15 ingredients. Most of them are synthetic fragrances. Natural essential oils, infusions and fruit juices are added to some essences to improve their smell. When creating a synthetic essence formulation, great importance is attached to the purity of the ingredients that make up the essence, especially the fragrant components that form the aroma of the essence.

The most common flavors:

1. almond essence;

2. rum essence;

3. chocolate essence;

4. cognac essence;

5. cognac;

6. amaretto;

8. irish cream;

9. vanilla essence;

10. vanilla biscuit;

11. vanilla rum;

12. tiramisu;

13. creme brulee;

14. coffee;

15. caramel essence;

16. Cream Charlotte;

17. mint essence;

18. menthol, tarragon;

19. honey (floral);

20. honey (buckwheat);

21. hazelnut;

22. pistachio;

23. walnut;

24. strawberry essence;

25. cranberry;

27. strawberry;

28. cherry (pulp) essence,;

29. raspberry essence;

30. wild berries;

31. grape essence;

32. blackcurrant;

33. barberry essence;

34. apricot essence;

35. peach essence;

36. pear essence;

38. apple;

40. prunes;

41. pineapple essence;

42. banana essence;

43. coconut essence;

44. lemon-lime;

45. orange essence;

46. ​​lemon essence;

47. tangerine essence.

1.1.2. Dry vegetable raw materials

Dry vegetable raw materials - dried fragrant parts of plants (seeds, fruits, roots) and lichens (oak moss), are used in the form of alcohol infusions. Of all tree mosses, oak moss is the most commonly used in perfumery. It gives the spirits shades of freshness and greenery, reminiscent of anise. This is necessary for chypre or green perfumes with a fresh smell.

There are plants (cloves, cinnamon, vanilla), from which the essential oil can be obtained only after drying and long-term storage, since the fragrant beginning is formed as a result of the enzymatic processes taking place.

Alcoholic infusions of dry vegetable raw materials are a valuable component of perfumes, as they have a full and persistent smell.

Resins and balms. Resins and balms are among the most ancient perfume raw materials. Myrrh, frankincense and galbanum were used by the Egyptians. Resins and balsams are products that flow from the cuts of certain trees. Resins - solid, sticky secretions, insoluble in water, soluble in turpentine, alcohol; contain essential oils. Resins include frankincense, gal-ban, myrrh, styrax.

Incense(from the Latin "incensum" - burned as a sacrifice) has a woody, spicy, lemon smell, similar to camphor. The best variety is dewy incense (benzoin resin). Frankincense is harvested from an incision in the bark of a tropical tree in the burzer family, native to East Africa and the Middle East. The resin is pale yellow or orange in color, solidifying, turns into a dark and solid substance.

Galban- resin obtained from herbaceous plants of the genus Ferula, growing in the mountains of Turkmenistan and Iran. Hardened galban is a whitish calculus, very odorous with fresh and at the same time forest animal aromas. Perfume Miss Dior includes the scent of galbanum.

Myrrh- aromatic resin arising from a cut in the bark of the trunk of the shrub Commiphora myrrha, growing in Africa, Asia, Arabia. The hardened resin is yellowish, reddish or brown in color, has a strong specific smell, reminiscent of lemon and rosemary at the same time. The essential oil (mirol), which is part of myrrh, has an antiseptic property, due to which myrrh was used for embalming.

Styrax- resin obtained from the liquidambra tree. The aroma is heavy, fragrant, similar to the smell of vanilla.

Balms- these are semi-liquid substances, solutions of wood resins in essential oils containing aromatic acids. The greatest use is toluan balm, which has the smell of vanilla.

Resins and balms are valuable not only because they have their own smell. They increase the resistance of the smell of perfumes, serve as fixatives, that is, they regulate the evaporation of fragrant substances in the composition, and do not allow them to act separately.

Resins and balms are used in the form of infusions.

1.2. Fragrancesanimal origin

Fragrances of animal origin are the dried glands of the males of some animals or the secretions of the endocrine glands and other organs.

Musk- a granular substance of a dark brown color, obtained from the dried endocrine glands of a male musk deer deer living in Eastern Siberia. The smell of horse sweat and urine. The basis is cyclic ketones. .

When dissolved in alcohol and infused, it gives a very pleasant smell. The smell of musk is very persistent: in Tabriz (Iran) there is a unique "fragrant" mosque of its kind. Its walls were laid on a mortar to which musk was added. This smell is felt even now, more than 600 years later.

Ambergris- oily, waxy mass of greenish-gray color with the smell of incense. Ambergris is found in the form of pieces of various sizes on the surface of the oceans, in the entrails and secretions of sperm whales. The main constituents are ambrain and benzoic acid.

Musk and amber in ancient times were used as independent fragrant means. Now - only for the enrichment of perfume compositions.

Zibet- isolation of a civet cat living in North Africa, Asia; yellowish sticky mass with a strong specific odor. The main component is ketone cibeton. When mixed with other components of perfume compositions, the substance loses the sharpness of the smell and gives the perfume shades of animal warmth and sensuality.

Castoreum (beaver stream) - odorous secretion of the beaver's internal glands. This oily yellowish substance has a sharp tar smell. Castoreum creates a warm, animalic note, close to the smell of leather, and perfumers use it in oriental, spicy compositions, as well as in men's perfumes. The durability of castoreum is extremely high.

Used in perfumery and musk jet- allocation of musky rats.

Raw materials of animal origin are used in the form of infusions. They sharpen the sensitivity of the organs of smell, thereby increasing the time of perception of the smell of perfume.

The temperament of French perfumes is largely due to the content of fragrant substances of animal origin in them. They have an "animal smell" and establish harmony between the smell of perfume and human skin, make the smell as if characteristic of man. These products are very expensive and are used in microscopic doses.

II. Syntheticfragrant substances

Synthetic fragrant substances are products of chemical processing of oil, coal, wood, essential oils.

They are divided into 2 groups:

actually synthetic, obtained by organic synthesis from the products of chemical processing of coal tar, oil, peat;

artificial- by isolating individual substances by chemical methods from natural essential oils, products of plant and animal origin.

An important task of synthesis is to obtain new fragrant substances with great strength and stability.

Scientists-chemists create synthetically individual substances, the smell of which has no analogues in nature. This greatly expands the possibilities of steamers.

Synthesis methods are becoming more sophisticated and equipment more efficient to recreate the scent of a flower without stripping it off. Thanks to new technology, the Yves Rocher firm was able to collect and study the fragrant substances of the rarest shafali flower growing at the foot of the Himalayas and blooming at sunset. According to the substances installed and counted by the computer, perfumers recreated the whole gamut of delicate aromas of a flower (perfume Shafali, rare flower).

The production of synthetic fragrances is very complex, but much cheaper than the processing of natural raw materials. For example, to obtain 1 kg of essential oil of jasmine flowers, 10 million flowers must be manually picked with great care, which is very expensive, and synthetic fragrant substances - jasmine-aldehyde are much cheaper.

Synthetic fragrances have played a huge role in the development of the perfumery and cosmetics industry and the expansion of the range of products. A combination of natural and S.D.V. allowed to diversify the smell of perfumery products.

Synthetic fragrances help preserve nature. The idea of ​​increasing the production of essential oils from plants constantly clashes with the issue of environmental protection.

From year to year on Earth, many species of plants finally disappear, forests become scarce. Restoring them is going with great difficulty. According to statistics, dozens of plant species disappear from the territory of the United States every year. According to scientists, out of 22 thousand species of higher plants growing on the territory of the former USSR, about 3 thousand are on the verge of extinction. Approximately 40,000 species are threatened worldwide.

The animal world is no less endangered. For the annual extraction of 2000 kg of musk, extracted from the glands of the male musk deer deer, about 60 thousand of these animals are exterminated. At the same time, the content of muscone, which is the fragrant beginning of musk, is about 1% in the latter. The number of sperm whales in the World Ocean does not exceed 300 thousand heads and continues to decrease. Every year, the extraction of ambergris is reduced. The beaver is also listed in the Red Book. The production of synthetic fragrances has stopped the extermination of some animal species. So, the savior of the musk deer is the fragrant substance musk-ketone, which has an intense smell of natural musk, and the sperm whale is ambreal with an amber smell.

However, synthetic fragrances cannot completely replace natural fragrances. Synthetic aromatic substances, even of a floral scent, determine only the main feature of the smell of a plant, they only resemble the smell of jasmine, rose, etc.

Synthetic fragrances by consistency are liquid or crystalline products.

According to the type of chemical compounds, synthetic fragrant substances are divided into 9 groups:

2.1. hydrocarbons

Diphenylmethane- obtained synthetically from benzene and benzene chloride, not found in natural essential oils. It smells of orange with an admixture of geranium smell.

Limonene- found in orange, lemon, cumin and other essential oils. It is obtained by fractional distillation of essential oils, as well as synthetically from a-terpionel by heating with sodium bisulfate. Has a lemon scent.

Paracimol - found in caraway, nutmeg, sage and other essential oils. It is obtained synthetically by dehydration of various terpenes. Has a cumin scent.

2.2. Alcohols

Geraniol- found in rose, geranium, citronella oils, lemon wormwood oil and other essential oils. It is isolated from natural essential oils containing geraniol through its double compound with calcium chloride. It smells like a rose Nerol - found in rose, geranium, bergamot and other essential oils. It is isolated by reduction of citral or isomerization of geraniol. It has a rose scent, but more gentle than that of geraniol.

Citronellol- found in geranium essential oil, has a rose scent. Obtained by catalytic reduction of citral or from citronella oil.

Terpineol- found in orange, geranium, camphor oils. It is obtained by processing turpentine oil containing up to 70% pinenes with a mixture of sulfuric acids and toluenesulfonic acids. Has a lilac scent.

Linalool- found in coriander, rose, orange and other essential oils. Obtained by fractionated distillation of coriander oil in a vacuum. Has a lily of the valley scent.

benzyl alcohol- contained in tuberose clove oil, obtained by saponification of benzyl chloride with a solution of soda ash, followed by purification. It has a slight aromatic smell.

β-Phenylethyl alcohol- contained in the form of esters in geranium and perolium oils; is an integral part of rose oil. It is obtained by the interaction of benzene with ethylene oxide in the presence of an aluminum chloride catalyst. In a diluted state, it has the smell of a rose.

The most important natural fragrances are found in many colors. These substances can be obtained from flowers by steam distillation. In this way, for example, rose oil is obtained from roses. From coniferous trees, you can get camphor, various terpenes (a type of hydrocarbons) and other fragrant substances.

Even 50 years ago, the perfume industry used exclusively natural fragrances. Synthetic fragrances are now widely used.

Many pleasant-smelling substances have been synthesized from benzene and its derivatives: anethole - a substance with the smell of anise oil, menthol - with the smell of mint, thymol - with the smell of thyme oil.

A substance with the smell of fresh hay - coumarin, found in plants (for example, in the woodruff), is now obtained exclusively through organic synthesis. Vanillin - the aromatic substance of vanilla - is synthesized from some compounds found in the sap of coniferous trees. From turpentine, terpineol is obtained, which has the smell of lilacs.

Synthetically, it is also possible to obtain eugenol, an oil with a strong smell of cloves, heliotropin, an odorous substance of heliotrope, and ononon, an aromatic substance of violets, cinnamic aldehyde contained in cinnamon oil, and many others.

Currently, the perfume industry uses mixtures of various chemical compounds as fragrant substances. Such mixtures are, for example, rose, lily of the valley and violet oils.

Some synthetic fragrances have nothing in common with naturally occurring substances of the same name and are named only because of their similarity in smell to natural substances. So, for example, nitrobenzene is called bitter almond oil (it is used to perfume toilet soap); amyl ester of acetic acid - pear essence; butyric acid ethyl ester - pineapple essence, etc.

A number of aromatic substances are prepared from fatty acids. In addition to pear and pineapple essences, these include, for example, isovaleric acid amyl ester - orange essence and isovaleric acid isoamyl ester - apple essence. They are mainly used to flavor soft drinks, sweets and artificial wines.

Known natural fragrant substances of animal origin. Some of the rarest and most expensive of these products are musk and civet.

Musk is a dark powdery substance with a strong odor. It is extracted from the gland of a male musk deer, a small wild goat animal found in the mountainous regions of Asia. About 60,000 of these animals are killed every year, extracting about 2,000 kilograms of valuable musk from them. The substance that causes the smell of musk is called musk. It is contained in musk in an amount of about 1%.

Cibet is about three times cheaper than musk. It is extracted from African civets - animals from the breed of cats. The smell of civet is due to the substance in it - civet.

About twenty years ago, the composition and structure of muscone and cibeton were established. It turned out that the carbon Skeletons and molecules of muscone and molecules of cibeton are built in a ring-like manner, only in muscone the ring consists of 15 atoms, and in cibeton - from 16. Soon muscone and ci-concrete were synthesized. At the same time, a number of other substances with a similar structure were synthesized. And here's what's interesting: depending on the number of carbon atoms in the ring, the smell of the resulting substances also changes. If the ring contains 5 carbon atoms, then the substance

It has the smell of bitter almonds, b - mint, 7-9 - camphor, 10-13 - cedar, 14-15 - musk. With a further increase in the number of carbon atoms, the smell decreases and, finally, disappears completely.

The main purpose of fragrant substances is to meet the cultural needs of man. However, they are sometimes used for other purposes as well. Let's take an example. Sharks have been observed to avoid waters where there are shark carcasses that smell of decomposition. Chemists managed to artificially obtain a substance with the same smell. Bricks of such a substance are attached to diving and rescue suits and successfully drive away sharks.

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Individual fragrances obtained by chemical synthesis are commonly referred to as synthetic fragrances (SF).

SDVs are found in very many classes of organic compounds. Their structure is very diverse: these are compounds with an open chain of a saturated and unsaturated nature, aromatic compounds, cyclic with a different number of carbon atoms in the cycle. Among hydrocarbons, substances with perfume properties are quite rare. Most fragrances contain one or more functional groups in the molecule. Esters and ethers, alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, lactones, nitro products - this is not a complete list of classes of chemical compounds, among which substances with valuable perfumery properties are scattered. The following is a brief description of some of the synthetic fragrances used in the cosmetics industry.

hydrocarbons are diphenylmethane, limonene and paracymol.

o Diphenylmethane is used in formulations and fragrances. It smells of orange with a touch of geranium. It is not found in natural essential oils, it is obtained synthetically.

o Limonene is found in orange, lemon, cumin and other essential oils. It is obtained mainly by two methods: fractional distillation of essential oils containing limonene, and synthetically. Limonene has a lemon scent and is used as an ingredient in artificial lemon oil.

o Paracymol is found in small amounts in caraway, anise and other essential oils, used in various fragrances and compositions.

Alcohols(geraniol, nerol, citronellol, terpineol, linalool), as well as esters, are among the most common fragrances used in the perfumery and cosmetics industry.

• Geraniol is found in geranium, rose, citranella oils, lemon wormwood oil, etc. It is isolated from natural essential oils containing geraniol. Geraniol is used in compositions and fragrances to give them a rose scent.
• Nerol is found in rose, neroli, bergamot, ylang-ylang and other essential oils. Get it synthetically. Nerol has a rose scent, but no more subtle than geraniol.
• Citronellol is found in geranium essential oil. In industry, it is mainly obtained synthetically or from citranella oil. Citronellol has a rose scent and is used in various compositions and fragrances.
• Terpineol is obtained from turpentine oil. It is found in orange, neroli, petitgrain and camphor oils. Terpineol has a lilac smell and is used in many compositions as one of its constituents.
• Linalool is found in orange, ylang-ylang, coriander and other oils. It has a lily of the valley scent. It is obtained mainly by fractional distillation of coriander oil.

Ethers used in the perfumery and cosmetic industry are diphenyl oxide, engenol, isoeugenol, methyl and ethyl esters.

• Diphenyl oxide is used as an aromatic substance with the smell of orange and geranium, for the preparation of perfumes and colognes, as well as fragrances for cosmetics, soaps and household chemicals.
• Eugenol and isoeugenol are isomers, i.e. they are identical in composition, have the same molecular weight, but have different chemical and physical properties. They have a smell of cloves, and in Engenol it is coarser. The industry prefers to use isoeugenol. It is found in clary sage oil, ylang-ylang oil, clove oil, etc. Eugenol is obtained from clove oil containing up to 85% eugenol, or synthetically.
• Methyl and ethyl esters of β-naphthols are used in the preparation of fragrances for soap from synthetic detergents. Methyl ether (yara-yara) has the smell of bird cherry, ethyl ether (nerolin-bromeliad) has a fruity smell. They are not found in natural essential oils. Both esters are obtained synthetically.

Esters(benzyl acetate, benzyl salicylate, iso-amyl acetate, methyl salicylate, methyl anthranilate, etc.) by their chemical nature represent the overwhelming majority among synthetic fragrances.

• Benzyl acetate is the main constituent derived from jasmine, hyacinth and gardenia flowers. However, in industry it is obtained synthetically. Benzyl acetate diluted has a jasmine-like odour. It is used to prepare compositions and fragrances.
• Benzyl salicylate was not found in natural essential oils. It is obtained synthetically. It has a slight balsamic odor and is used in perfume compositions and fragrances.
• Isoamyl acetate was not found in natural essential oils. It is obtained synthetically. It has an odor reminiscent of orchid flowers. Possesses the increased chemical firmness, in particular in alkaline environments. In connection with these properties, it is used mainly in fragrances for soaps, detergents, shampoos, as well as in household chemicals,
• Methyl salicylate is a component of cassia, ylang-ylang and other essential oils. However, it is obtained synthetically. It has an intense scent of ylang-ylang. Use it for preparation of compositions and fragrances.
• Methyl anthranilate has not been found in natural essential oils. Get it synthetically. It has an odor reminiscent of the scent of orange blossoms. Used to prepare compositions.
• Linalyl acetate is part of oils (clary sage, lavender, bergamot, etc.). It is obtained from essential oils (coriander, etc.) containing linalool by reacting the linalool in the oil with acetic anhydride, followed by purification from impurities by double distillation under vacuum. It has a scent reminiscent of bergamot oil. It is used in perfume compositions and fragrances for cosmetics, soaps and detergents.
• Terpenyl acetate was not found in natural essential oils. It is obtained by reacting terpineol with acetic anhydride in the presence of a catalyst. Has a floral scent. It is used for the preparation of perfume compositions and fragrances with the smell of a floral direction.
• Ethyl cinnamate, although found in some essential oils, is obtained synthetically. It has a slight balsamic scent with a floral note. It is used for the preparation of compositions and fragrances.

In addition to the listed esters, which have an intense aromatic odor, there is a large group of esters, such as benzyl benzoate, diethyl phthalate, ethyl acetate, etc., which have a weak aroma, and therefore are not used as fragrances in compositions and fragrances. However, they are often used in compositions as solvents for crystalline fragrances that are sparingly or sparingly soluble in alcohol.

lactones(coumarin, pentadecanolide) have found the greatest use of this group of chemical compounds.

• Coumarin occurs naturally as glucosides in tonka bean and barley. However, in industry it is obtained synthetically. It smells like fresh hay. Used in compositions and fragrances.
• Pentadecanolide was not found in natural raw materials. It is synthesized chemically as a result of complex multi-stage reactions. This lactan is of great interest to the perfume industry as it has a rare animal musk odor and also has fixing properties in perfume compositions.

Aldehydes, as well as esters, are one of the most common chemical groups of aromatic substances. The following aldehydes have found the greatest use in industry.

• Benzaldehyde is found in many essential oils (orange, acacia, hyacinth, bitter almond, neroli, etc.). But in industry it is obtained by oxidation of toluene with manganese dioxide in the presence of copper sulfate. Has a smell of bitter almonds. It is used to prepare compositions with a floral scent. In addition, benzaldehyde is used in many syntheses as a feedstock for the production of other aromatic substances.
• Vanillin is found in vanilla pods. It is obtained in various ways, but its most common synthesis is from guaiacol and lignin. Vanillin has a very strong vanilla smell. Used in perfumery and cosmetics, confectionery, baking and other food industries.
• Hydroxycitronellal has a fresh scent of linden with a note of lily of the valley. Not found in natural essential oils. Receive synthetically. It is used to prepare many compositions and fragrances.
• Heliotropin is found in the essential oil of heliotrope flowers and vanilla pods. The starting material for the production of heleotropin is essential oils containing safrole (sassophrasic, camphor and false camphor laurel, as well as star anise oils). Obtained by isomerization of safrole. It has a strong scent of heliotrope flowers. It is used for the preparation of compositions and fragrances.
• Jasminaldehyde is not found in natural essential oils. Receive synthetically. In a diluted state, it resembles the smell of jasmine flowers. Used in compositions and fragrances. Jasminealdehyde is dangerous. It can ignite in air, therefore, during storage, it is packed in bottles with ground stoppers and placed additionally in a metal container.
• Obepin as a fragrant substance with a smell reminiscent of the smell of hawthorn flowers is used in the manufacture of compositions for perfumes and colognes, fragrances for cosmetics. It is found in nature in anise, fennel and other oils containing anethole. Until recently, obepin was obtained only from anise or fennel oils, containing 90 and 60% anethole, respectively, by oxidation with chromium peak. Institute VNIISNDV introduced a chemical method for obtaining obepine by oxidation of methyl alcohol paracresol with potassium persulfate. This method is of great importance for industry, as it opens up the possibility of creating artificial essential oils (anise, fennel, etc.).
• Citral is found in the essential oil of lemon wormwood and snakehead. Has a strong lemon scent. It is used as an essential component for the preparation of compositions and fragrances. Previously, citral was obtained mainly from coriander oil. In recent years, the VNIISNDV Institute and the Kaluga Combine have created a technology for the synthesis of citral from isoprene and acetylene. And although the synthesis is complex, multi-stage, but, given that citral is also the feedstock for many syntheses, the method is very promising, despite its complexity.
• Phenylacetic aldehyde is not found in nature. Obtained by oxidation of phenylethyl alcohol with a chromium mixture. It has a strong hyacinth scent. It is used in compositions to give them a floral tint of smell.
• Cyclamenaldehyde is not found in nature. It is synthesized from cumene, the synthesis is multi-stage and complex. It has a strong smell, reminiscent of the smell of cyclamen flowers. Used in flower arrangements and fragrances.

Ketones(ionone, methylionone) are used in the perfumery and cosmetic industry for the preparation of compositions and fragrances.

• Ionone, when diluted, resembles the smell of violets. Previously obtained from citral-containing essential oils (coriander, etc.). Currently produced by condensation of synthetic citral with acetone.
• Methylionone (iraliya), as well as ionone, is obtained from oxidized coriander oil or synthetic citral.

Nitro compounds derivatives of the aromatic series (amber musk, musk-ketone) have not only the smell of musk, but are also fixatives, which is widely used in the preparation of compositions and fragrances.

• Amber musk is not found in nature. Obtained synthetically from metacresol and urea. The synthesis is multistage and complex.
• Musk-ketone, like amber musk, has a musky smell, but of a different shade. Synthesized from metaxylene and isobutyl alcohol.

Foundations. As a base used in industry, one can cite indole, which is used as a component in compositions and perfumes with the smell of jasmine. It is found in nature in oils of jasmine, neroli, orange flowers, etc. Indole is obtained synthetically.

According to the direction of use, fragrant substances can be divided into:

1. perfumery substances(for the preparation of fragrant compositions intended for the manufacture of perfumes, eau de parfum or "day perfume", colognes and eau de toilette),

2. cosmetic substances(to add fragrance to cosmetic products - lipstick, creams, lotions, foams),

3. fragrance substances(for soap, synthetic detergents and other household chemicals),

4. odor fixing substances(to reduce the evaporation of basic aromatic substances, as well as to intensify their smell in the case of synergy, that is, such a mutual influence of the two components of the perfume composition, which enhances their useful, in this context, and fragrant properties).

Sources:

1. H. Villamo "Cosmetic Chemistry",

2. L.A. Heifitz "Scented Substances for Perfumery"

3. "Fundamentals of Organic Chemistry of Fragrances for Applied Aesthetics and Aromatherapy" under. edited by A.T. Soldatenkova,

4. I.I. Sidorov "Technology of natural essential oils and synthetic fragrances",

5. R.A. Friedman "Technology of cosmetics".

Solvents.

Any solution consists of solutes and a solvent, i.e. environment in which these substances are evenly distributed in the form of molecules and ions.

Usually, a solvent is considered to be that component that exists in its pure form in the same state of aggregation as the resulting solution. For example, in the case of an aqueous salt solution, the solvent is water.

If both components before dissolution were in the same state of aggregation (for example, alcohol and water), then the component that is in a larger amount is considered the solvent.

Cosmetic solvents

Water

Water (H2O) is undoubtedly the most common solvent in cosmetics, and a strong solvent that can dissolve salts, acids, alkalis, as well as a large number of organic substances.

Water is the main ingredient in facial lotions, cosmetic milks and light creams, and many shampoos.

In all these cosmetics, various substances are dissolved in water. If a particular substance does not dissolve sufficiently in it, then the property of water as a solvent can be improved by adding small amounts of ordinary alcohol or glycerin to it.

Alcohols

Alcohols are also strong solvents. Ordinary ethanol(ethanol С2Н5ОН) among them is the most common.

Facial lotions often use a 15-25% mixture of water and alcohol. Compared to pure water, this mixture has better dissolving properties and lower surface tension, which makes it easier to cleanse the skin of the face. It also has a weak fat-dissolving property, gives a feeling of coolness and freshness due to the presence of alcohol in it, and at the same time disinfects.

Often used instead of ethanol propyl(C3H7OH) or isopropyl alcohol in small quantities.

Propyl alcohol, as well as higher molecular weight butyl(C4H9OH) and amyl(C5H11OH) alcohols are used as solvents for nail polish in nail polish removers.

Glycerin and glycol

Glycerin and glycol are good solvents and are miscible in all proportions with water.

Ether

Ether (C4H10O) is a very strong fat solvent, but given its low flash point (40°C) and explosiveness, it must be handled with extreme care.

Acetone

Acetone (CH3-C(O)-CH3), like ether, has a rather pungent odor and is a highly flammable liquid that effectively dissolves fats.

This has been the reason why it has been almost abandoned in recent times as a nail polish thinner as well as in nail polish remover.

Esters

Esters such as ethyl acetate(CH3-COO-CH2-CH3), ethyl butyrate(C3H7COOC2H5), dibutyl phthalate(C6H4(COOC4H9)2) and even higher molecular weight butyl stearate(CH3 (CH2) 16COO (CH2) 3CH3) are included in the composition of nail polish removers, since they degrease the skin less. They can also be used as a solvent in the manufacture of nail polish.

Oils and fats

Oils and fats also act as solvents in some cases. The addition of so-called fat-soluble substances (eg lecithin and cholesterol) to cosmetic formulations suggests that these substances are soluble in the fats contained in the mixture.

Dyes and pigments.

General information

Dyes- chemical compounds that have the ability to intensively absorb and convert the energy of electromagnetic radiation in the visible and near ultraviolet and infrared regions of the spectrum and are used to impart this ability to other bodies.

The distinctive ability of the dye is the ability to impregnate the dyed material (for example, textiles, paper, fur, hair, leather, wood, food, etc.) and give color throughout the volume.

The terms "dye" and "pigment" are often used interchangeably. But they differ in their solubility in the dye medium (solvent).

Dyes are soluble in the dye medium. During the dyeing process, they penetrate into the material and form a more or less strong bond with the fibers.

Pigments - insoluble. In the paint, they are in the binder (linseed oil, nitrocellulose, etc.). The bond with the material to be painted is provided by a binder.

Some colorants may be pigments in one dye medium and pigments in another.

Coloring agents can be divided into two groups:

1. substances of mineral origin and

2. substances of organic origin.

Dyes are usually organic substances. Pigments are mostly fine dispersions of minerals.

Dyes classification

Dye technologists classify dyes by application. Specialist chemists involved in the synthesis of dyes and studying the relationship between the structure and properties of substances, classify dyes by chemical structure.

Similar information.