Restaurants stand in line, but the only marine farmer in Crimea cannot develop the farm. Pearls of Crimea
Crimean businessman told the site, with what difficulties faced, engaged in the oyster business on the peninsula
On 5 hectares of the Black Sea in the area of \u200b\u200bthe village of Katsivel, the borders are growing sea delicacies - together with Crimea, Russia received an oysteriously mussel farm, the first and only since the times of the revolution. Although if officials do not show attention, we can lose this sample import substitution.
From socks - to mollusks
- 10 years ago, I did not assume that Crimea will go to Russia, which will impose sanctions, "says the farm owner Sergey Kulik. - But it turns out that then came in the top ten. Now the phone bursts, call customers, and investors from all over the country. Just I have always been a Chujka for innovative views of the business.
After the restructuring "Chujka" threw the former space engineer to different areas - from logging in Tomsk province to milk processing in the Lipetsk region. In the mid-90s, it was the kulik in collaboration with the fashion designer of Yudashkina sewed the most raspberry jackets. Then he got carried away by the production of antimicrobial socks - such as after three weeks, no'ski does not smell. It was especially grateful for the development of the traveler Fedor Konyukhov. But the socks did not go to the massive sale, although, I remember, after about similar innovations they spoke to Rosnano. But Kulik by then was already far and in the power of another idea.
"I have long decided that after 50, I will move from Moscow to the Crimea to meet old age," he says. "I arrived in Catswell, built a hotel complex here, but it was somehow boring. I thought that if I also had my seafood, then I would definitely at the horse.
Kulik learned that even before the revolution in Crimea there were dozens of oyster farms that delivered products to the royal table and to Europe. Crimean oysman was valued for his unique sweetness.
- In Europe, the oyster salted, give fish, because they are watered with lemon. And in the Black Sea salinity below - 17-18 PROMILL, because our oyster is sweet, gentle, and it can be just under the bed of wine.
Bloother for me in the open sea was not found, but fresh oyster aquafermer treated. It turned out, no wonder - no salt and fish aftertaste. Although those oysters, which grows Kulik, is not Black Sea. The "native" mollusks are almost cleaned with another maritime inhabitant - Rapan (by the way, he is now the main enemy of akvapermer).
"Rapana was delivered here in the 1940s on the bottoms of the ships, and he devoured almost the entire Black Sea Oyster," says Kulik. "Therefore, I had to understand whether the Pacific Oysters from Europe would take care of. Experts said it is possible.
Fighting mortality
And then the titanic work began on the return of oysters in the Crimea. The first two years went to the design of documents and the preparation of the water area.
- In France, oysters is bred in calm lagoons with a good ecology, "Kulik says. - And we have all the bays and constantly storm. It was necessary to make an antishtore system. I ordered steel ropes in Russia, cast 5-ton anchors in Sevastopol with suction cups, bought a buoy in Italy and the oysterny cages in Italy, drove a float here - I left for rent $ 5,000 per day.
19 meters from the shore there are 19 cable lines with bayaks and suspended at a depth of two meters with oysters cages. But they did not hurry to settle their kulik.
The bunches of mussels ripen on steel ropes / author
"It was necessary to check the suitability of the system," he explains. - In 2008, there was a storm: 11 ships rushed ashore, two mussel plantations under Sevastopol died. And my system was withstanding. And even the wild mussel, which has grown on the ropes, has been preserved.
In 2009, the Kulik went to Europe for the Savior. But from the first 500 thousand oysters-fry, as soon as 20 thousand euros, 90% died silently.
- We landed them not so, the temperature could not stand it, - Sergey Vasilyevich complains.
For the next "walkers", he took out of Italy and France another 500 thousand spage. About 70 thousand lived to this day.
- Even with the right technology, to grow a million oysters, it is necessary to purchase 4-5, "explains the aquafermer.
The oyster is growing to the commodity consumption of 2-3 years, and during this time it threatens a bunch of dangers. First, 10-30% dies during transportation. Another 30% eats Ripan.
"We are once a year when he is spawning, completely swore all the cages." In addition, the oyster as it should be searched, otherwise it is closely, and the cage under the weight goes to the bottom, and the Ripan is waiting back, "says Sergey Kulik. - Plus, once every three months, Sadka must be cleaned from algae: if they tauchery, the oyster does not have enough plankton for nutrition. In general, it is like a glimpse of the beds, only on the sea "vegetable garden".
"Vegetable" until recently plowed manually. Forces of four workers, including the Kulik himself, another 6-8 people hired for the season. The aquafermers themselves dived behind heavy caddles, manually cleaned every of thousands of oysters. Also sorted and growing mussels. But last year it became easier - the Kulik bought a safe boat from Italian oyster production. It has a pump for cleaning the saddle, the lifting mechanism and installation for washing and sorting mussels.
Star thorns
To establish industrial production and uninterrupted supplies, the Kulik must be introduced another innovation - "Mini-Sea on land" from 50 informing swimming pools with flowing sea water for overalls of mollusks.
- Because of the storms we have only 120 days of workers. Orders a lot, and we can't go out in the sea. Having a coastal base, I will be able to plant the necessary part of oysters and mussels there, to grow them in the pools and constantly sell, "the kulik explains.
For the base, he rented 375 square meters. coast meters. In addition to the pools, a faucet for lifting products and a boat will be located here (it is also impossible to keep it from the shore from behind the storms). Crane Kulik has already bought for 100 thousand dollars and almost put. But the neighbors were prevented - the local observatory, whose radio telescope has long been spinning over the beach. Astronomers were afraid that the oyster crane would block them a communication channel with space.
- Director set up against me and local residents, and hotel owners. Like, tourists will stop going to you, and the crane will fall on holidaymakers. Although it is impossible, - assures a kulik.
In his opinion, astronomers pursue unscientific interests: allegedly, the leadership of the observatory also earns in tourists, passing them by beach houses on their territory. The conflict of the sky and the sea lasts since the times of Ukraine.
"They wrote to the SBU, last spring tried to put pressure on my landlord through the prosecutor's office," says Kulik. "I also notified the local and federal authorities and sued the court." I used to close the business because of officials. And if during the month they will not allow to establish this production, closing it to the end.
The kulik for 8 years has invested $ 2.5 million in his farm, he does not even voicate the amount of his debts and loans. And although the turnover over the past year doubled, but the income from the marine "vegetable" is insignificant.
- Last year I shipped 20 thousand pieces of oysters, 180 rubles per piece. And still mussel tons 20, 120 rubles. for kilo. But this is Mizer, "says Kulik. "And I considered: it would be possible to arrange a coastal base for 235 million rubles, to establish a round-the-clock work in three shifts and expand from 5 to 20 hectares. But this is possible only with state support.
But if it can not wait for farmers on land, what to talk about the sea "Ogorodnik". After the revolution, the new power was too busy to save the oyster production. But now the Polythmoment is the most favorable. Dreams of officials about import substitution, one person in its field has already made reality. Instead of empty conversations about the bright future, it is possible to grasp for an almost ready-made achievement - just so that it is not to be reduced.
/ By the way
- In 1871, the first Russian oyster society appeared in Crimea, five aquatic worked in one Sevastopol bay.
- By 1917, Russia supplied to Europe to 12 million Black Sea oysters annually.
- In 2013, the Russian Federation imported 4.5 million oysters, and about 300 thousand "wild" mollusks were mined on Sakhalin. Against the background of the embargo, Russia reported that by 2017 the Kuban and Crimean manufacturers will ensure complete import substitution of oysters. That a priori is impossible without importing welcome. Only in June in the Ministry of Agriculture, they announced the cancellation of sanctions on the import of mudflows of oysters (as SELEME Earlier).
Specvagon for mollusks
In 1765, Ekaterina II ordered the Arkhangelian governor to start fishing "Urges" in the White Sea and send them to the Imperial Dvor. But the governor could not fulfill the highest order: in the White Sea Oysters was simply not, because these clams are not found outside 60-65 ° Northern latitude. But in the Black Sea, off the coast of Crimea, oysters, on the contrary, were used in many. Oyster banks are so called Natural Colonies Oysters - were off the coast of Feodosia and Kerch, in Sevastopol, under Yalta.
In the 1830s, Count Vorontsov, General Governor of Novorossia, established Oysters from Cape Ai-Todor. Oysters sold on this fishery sold to the local population. But when in Crimea, there was an opportunity to send oysters to Petersburg, Moscow, Kiev, Kharkov, Ekaterinoslav (current Dnepropetrovsk), Riga, Warsaw. Such a broad geography was due to the fact that in Russia, oysters mined only in the Black Sea (in the Crimea and in the Caucasus), and in addition, the Black Sea Oysters were appreciated by gourmets for an exquisite delicate taste. Sevastopol oysters were especially famous - they were sent to St. Petersburg to the Imperial Table. It is believed that the oyster (and eat raw mollusks), when they open the sink, it should make a characteristic peak - this is one of the signs of its freshness and, so to speak, benignness. On the imperial table, the oyster was certainly singing - for the delivery of mollusks to the capital, a special car refrigerator was invented, in which this delicate goods traveled from Sevastopol to St. Petersburg, without risking to spoil on the way.
Three plants in Sevastopol
On the special advantages of oysters from the Sevastopol Bay mentioned in the authoritative edition of the end of the XIX - the beginning of the 20th century - the encyclopedic dictionary of Brockhaus and Efron. This states:Due to the irrational fishing, the number of them is strongly declined, why the persons involved in the export of oysters, in 1894, began to breed oysters under artificial conditions, for which it is arranged in the Sevastopol Bay of the Oyster Plant with collectors and cells to withstand oysters. The case is put in non-Ukraino; A significant proportion of oysters from this plant in Moscow is only withstanding on it, and fishermen caught on natural banks. [...] Sent oysters on the railway from Sevastopol, according to 1894-95, 900,000 pieces. In the Crimea, Oyster Likes is practiced near Feodosia.The described oyster plant is nothing more than the "First Russian Association of Oysterior Affairs on the Black Sea", formed just in 1894 for the Cylene Coven. There they built a small stone pier and a partnership building with an unusual finish - from Oyster's shells and mussels. In 1895 and 1896, the "First Russian Association of Oysterior Estate in the Black Sea" received gold and two silver medals "for keeping the right oysteriority" and for the "excellent ocherching of oysters". Were in Sevastopol and other plants. In the southern bay, the plant of the Sevastopol trader Dagger was worked, and near him was the plant of the Balaklava Greek Denax.
At the turn of the centuries, 4.5 million oysters pieces per year was mined in the Crimea, but in the following decades, oysters began to die due to water pollution from untreated domestic and storm waste. Already at the beginning of the twentieth century in Sevastopol there were cases of sharp intestinal diseases after eating oysters, and in 1903 - 1904 there were even a few deaths from such a "oyster typhoid." The next blow to oysters inflicted the mollusk Rapana spreading in the Black Sea in 1950 - 60s: this predator is powered by other mollusks, first of all - oysters. Then in the 1970s, oysters began to hurt with fungal sink disease and eventually became a big rarity from the coast of Crimea.
Over the past four years, an explosive growth has occurred in the production of aquaculture on the peninsula. Marine plantations, where they grow mollusks, shrimp and some types of fish, increased 200 times, and the number of farms increases in geometric progression. Together with production, competition is growing rapidly, and not always conscientious.
Oyster do not immediately swear, shake it for a few seconds. Try without lemon, feel natural taste, - treats the owner of the oldest on the Peninsula of the Oysterior Midwear Farm Sergey Kulik. - Now drink white wine.
Four years ago his farm was the only one and therefore exotic not only for the peninsula, but also for all Russia. Today it is one of 10 already acting similar farms in the Crimea, almost the smallest. Total five hectares of marine stroy. Even eight similar projects are in the design stage or start production. Over 1,000 hectares of the shelf, where it is already growing or will soon be planted for ripening the harvest of marine delicacies. However, in business, as in the life of the mollusks themselves, not everyone will live to the finish.
While they are not competitors, "Sergey Kulik argues. - They need three to four years to stand up. This is all long investment. To recoup the initial costs, you must first invest 4 - 5 million euros, while payback period is six to seven years. And if you invest 2 million, then the payback period and more, 12 years.
The first farm in Crimea has been working since 2005. Those companies that arose after 2014 do it with a scope and an eye on a serious industrial turnover. One of them began production three years ago at once at 160 hectares. This year collected the first harvest, about 40 - 60 thousand oysters. And a year later, when they go to the calculation capacity, there will be up to four million pieces, or 400 tons. And about 100 tons of mussels. This volume is designed to implement outside the Crimea. However, even if all the aquafers of the peninsula will begin the industrial supplies of mollusks, the Russian market is so great, manufacturers are sure that they swallow and these volumes. Another thing is that in the country, marine delicacies are not so claimed as in France or Italy.
We need to promote the culture of seafood consumption, says the general director of a large company operating in this sector, Roman Goncharov. - If compared with the same European Union, then there are 70 percent of seafood and only 30 percent of meat. We are all exactly the opposite.
In France, Italy, Ireland and Holland, Crimean manufacturers buy spat - young mollusks. There it costs 3 - 10 rubles per unit. Plus delivery, customs, and then still natural selection. However, starting its own production of the spage is so far unprofitable, experts say. For this, it is necessary that the wholesale demand of manufacturers in the Crimea amounted to at least a billion fry per year. And he is far from this. Therefore, Crimean businessmen have a more modest goal, for example, to press the Chilean and New Zealand mussel from the Russian market. That albeit a largest Crimean, but noticeably inferior to her in taste. Secret in the salinity of water. It contains only 17 salt ppm in the Black Sea, and on average in the World Ocean, this figure is 35 units. Therefore, the meat of Black Sea mollusks turns out to be gentle, without excess salt and even slightly sweet. Real Issirm for gourmet.
Oysters from Farm-old-timer has already gained reputation and market. Today they are served in the best restaurants of the peninsula. Wholesale vacation price - 160 - 180 rubles per shell. In the visitors menu, it will grow up to 300 rubles. However, the wonderful taste qualities of local oysters together with an increase in demand for this delicacy, unscrupulous competition. One of the major producers, approve colleagues on the workshop, became aircraft to deliver to the Crimea Far Eastern wild oyster, selling it as like Crimean. The public is not yet too tempting to distinguish the original to taste or appearance. But at the price of the bridge delicacy, it is advantageous of the local one. Wholesale such oysters are sold at 60 - 80 rubles per piece. Local aquafermers worries not only competition, but also the ecology of the region.
If here, together with oysters from the Far East, will deliver starfish, it will be Beach for the entire Black Sea. God forbid, she will come true here, "says Roman Goncharov. "We have a brought predator, Rapana." And the star will simply destroy all wild mollusks in the Black Sea, which means that the whole business. Even Rapana can rise to the farms, to postpone the fry, which in two - three months begins to eat oysters and mussels.
In short, the Crimean manufacturers felt that their business would need to protect and from predatory iglinodes, and from unscrupulous competitors. 14 sea and freshwater farms of the Crimea united into an association, which intends to present interests in government and in courts, if necessary.
The owner of the submarine Sergey Kulik. Photo: Ivan Zhilin / "New Gazeta"
Cattle. In this small, 529 people, the village in the mountain Cat, between Yalta and Sevastopol, there are only two attractions: Astrophysical Observatory and Oysterious Midwear Farm. It is unknown if the observatory works. With oysters clearer: Weekly from the restaurants of Feodosia, Simferopol, Sevastopol and Yalta to the goal on Vitkevich Street drive up, and the owner of the farm Sergey Kulik shipments its clams. Contracting with Sergey about the meeting, I planned to write: Russian import substitution exists. But Sergey, listening to me, said: "Meet me if you agree to write about my problems. Farm want to destroy. "
Revival traditions
The life of the "Oyster Baron" appeared somehow differently. There was no dirty cherry "nine" in this picture, on which Sergey and I went to Catswell from Yalta. He told his story.
- Until 1913, Russia made up to 12 million oysters a year and supplied them to Europe. Worked large oyster farms under theeodosia and Sevastopol. After the revolution, the production began to chilli, and in 1947, the Soviet torpedo boats with ballast waters brought from the Japanese Sea to Black Rapan. This predatory mollusk is powered by mussels and oysters, and most importantly - well multiplies. And in the fifties, the Black Sea Oyster introduced into the Red Book.
Restore the population of the Black Sea Oyster is now very difficult. This requires a special nursery, a laboratory, 7-8 biologic breeders, one and a half or two million dollars of investment, and most importantly - productivity of about 100 million packages ( larvae.— I. Zh.) in year. I am not so much to pull this, and I chose another way - I decided to deliver the Pacific Oysters from France and England and grow it here. After 3-4 years, the larva turns into a large - up to 12 centimeters - the oyster, which, in taste, surpasses the Mediterranean conifers, because those grow under conditions of 34 ppm salinity, and the salty of the Black Sea is 17 ppm. Therefore, my oyster turns out to be tender than European and does not give algae.
Through thorn
Open the oyster farm - "Underwater Garden", as he calls her, - Sergey decided before retirement.
- It was a long-standing desire: after 55 leave Moscow to Crimea. The oysters diluted in the Black Sea before, I learned from a familiar scientist. Then he conducted research of the water area: the depth is important - from 12 to 20 meters, the flow is 1.5-2 m / s, the absence of industrial emissions into the water and the presence of phytoplankton, that is, the feed for oysters. Then he picked up the stretch marks, ropes, cage: if they are wrong to choose - oysters with a storm just can disrupt and carry in the sea.
In 2005, Kulik signed the regime of special commodity and fisheries with the chief of Ukraine (one of the types of rental of the water area) for 10 years.
- After that, I installed plantation from steel ropes, arrays and buoys, and did not do anything about anything with this, but only watched whether the design would withstand the design: in winter there are especially strong storms here. And when in 2008 there was a storm, and in the Feodosian bay 11 ships were thrown ashore, my plantation was resulted. And only then I accepted the decision to buy. Brought the first 500,000 oyster larvae from France and landed. So in Ukraine, and now the first oyster farm appeared in Russia.
- Frequently go to the sea? - I'm interested in.
- With the first opportunity, when not a storm.
- Everyday?
Until 2014, the farmer and his employees were manually caught by the oysters: they themselves dived behind the cages, moved and cleaned every of thousands of oysters. Then the kulik bought a boat from the Italians: with a pump for cleaning the saddle, lifting mechanism and installation for washing and sorting mussels.
By 2015, he invested $ 2.5 million in his farm. The company gave about 20,000 oysters and 20 tons of mussels per year.
- by the time I considered that it would be possible to arrange a coastal base for 235 million rubles, to establish a round-the-clock work in three shifts, expand from 5 to 20 hectares and, increasing the volume, to do this import substitution - the supply of oysters to Moscow, St. Petersburg and etc. But it would be possible only with state support.
Dreams of state support turned out to be unexpectedly: Sergey snapped the state to his "submarine garden".
Bidding and state security
- In February 2015, I have ended the deadline for the regime of a special commodity and fisheries on 5 hectares of water area, and I addressed Rosrybolov to a proposal to extend the contract of use, "says Kulik. - According to Part 9 of Art. 17.1 of the Federal Law "On Competition", the conclusion of a contract for a new term with a tenant, properly performed his duties, is carried out without a contest and auction. I worked, no complaints about me. But Rosrybolov's answer struck.
Sergey got a document from the folder signed by the head of the Federal Agency for Fisheries Agency Vasily Sokolov: "After the term of the regimens, special commodity and fisheries (STR) must enter into an agreement for using the fishing plot in accordance with the Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation of May 15, 2014 No. 450, passing Project procedure. "
- What are the trading? - the farmer is indignant. - If a government decree in Russia contradicts federal legislation is not my fault. Moreover, the law in Russia has the highest legal force in relation to other legal acts, so be kindest - renew the contract!
This argument in the letters to Rosrybolovy the Kulik led until July 2015, until he found out: he claims to be applying for his water. It turned out that the Azov-Black Sea Territorial Office of Rosrybolovtia launched the procedure for determining the fish-water sections in Katsivel at the request of a certain LLC "Russian Black Sea Company" Crimean Seafood ", and later - appointed auction for their redemption.
"New Gazeta" brought inquiries: LLC "Russian Black Sea Company" Crimean Seafood "belongs to Dionysius Sevastyanov, Shurina Vice-President of Yandex Robert Stabbbler. However, it was not possible to contact representatives of the company: on the site "Crimean seafood" section "Contacts" is missing, and at the address of registration in Yalta the company did not turn out.
Robert Stublbabine (extreme left) in the Old Believer Temple of Simferopol redeemed in 2015 in the city authorities. Photo: StarooBrad.ru.
The auction for the sale of a waters belonging to the water area was to take place on January 18, 2016, but during the preparation for him another contender appeared - the Federal Agency of Scientific Organizations (Fano), whose employees led to a significant argument in their favor: In 1966, the Sevastopol Sevastopol's Marine Hydrophysical Institute gave The Kaziwellian waters are the status of a regimen area prohibited for shipping.
With Ukraine, the institute issued a wort by a waters to the use of the water area, and now, turning into Subsidation Fano, announced the undesirable to stay of the oyster farm in the "Regional Zone No. 197".
At the same time, scientists decided not only the water area, but also the coast of the village. And on the spot of its "garden" will "be carried out technological tests, including in the interests of the military-industrial complex of the Russian Federation."
